The narrative of a journey undertaken in the years 1819, 1820 and 1821 through France, Italy, Savoy, Switzerland, parts of Germany bordering on the Rhine, Holland and the Netherlands : $b comprising incidents that occurred to the author, who has long suffered under a total deprivation of sight; with various points of information collected on his tourHolman, James
History
The narrative of a journey undertaken in the years 1819, 1820 and 1821 through France, Italy, Savoy, Switzerland, parts of Germany bordering on the Rhine, Holland and the Netherlands : $b comprising incidents that occurred to the author, who has long suffered under a total deprivation of sight; with various points of information collected on his tour
Holman, James
Europe -- Description and travel
In the morning, after calling at the post-office and at the British
consul’s to ascertain the state of the Neapolitan war, I proceeded to
explore the town; the weather was, however, wet, cold, and uncomfortable,
and I was sensible of a very different climate from that of Nice; indeed,
I was informed that, during some of our finest days at the latter place,
it rained or snowed at Genoa.
The succeeding day was the last of the Carnival, and a great number of
people were parading the streets masked, and in all the fantastic garb
of the season; the business, however, appeared to be kept up with more
spirit than at Toulouse on the preceding winter. In the course of the
evening a person with whom I was walking addressed a female mask, who
said she was cook in a gentleman’s family, and that she must hasten
home to wash the dishes; on parting, we induced her to shake hands with
us; and if I am a judge of the affair, I pronounce that _her_ hand had
never been in dish-water, for a prettier formed, or more delicate one,
I never touched in my life. In the evening, the festival concluded with
masked-balls at the theatres, and other amusements.
On the following day (Wednesday), the weather was still unfavourable.
Several gentlemen, to whom I had forwarded letters from their friends at
Nice, called upon me, two of whom conducted me to various parts of the
city, and described its beauties. It is surrounded by two walls; an inner
one, taking in a circumference of six or seven miles, and an outer one,
making a boundary of not less than thirteen miles, and enclosing various
rising grounds which command the city: there are two fine bridges over
small rivers, one in the eastern, the other in the western part of the
town.
Independent of the three streets which I have already named, Genoa
consists of little better than lanes, so numerous and intricate, that a
stranger is constantly losing his way; and even those who have been some
time resident are not unfrequently at a loss. The cathedral, churches,
Doge’s palace, and various other public as well as private buildings, are
very fine, and well worth the attention of the traveller.
There is an Italian proverb relative to Genoa, which says, that it has
“sea without fish; land without trees; and men without faith.” The first
of these accusations I am satisfied is without foundation: for I was
given to understand that fish, as well as all other provisions, were
plentiful, and even cheaper than at Nice. The wine of the country is not
considered good, but excellent Italian and French wines may be purchased
at a reasonable rate; the best and cheapest way of procuring them is
to go on board some vessel in the port, taste the different qualities,
and select what pleases the palate; any quantity may then be ordered,
but it is advisable to be provided with a porter or two to carry it away
immediately, and to take care not to lose sight of it, until it reaches
home in safety, or it will run great risk of being changed.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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