During my residence at Rome, I generally preferred dining at one of these houses, as possessing some advantages over the table d’hôte; strangers find here a great facility in acquiring the language, as the conversation is carried on almost exclusively in the Italian tongue; while, at the same time, an Englishman is sure to meet with numbers of his countrymen. The present was the season of Lent, when Rome is generally thought to be badly supplied with provisions; I was not, however, conscious of any deficiency, except in the article of lamb, which is forbidden to be sold or made use of during this season; but they contrive to have young kid as a substitute, and which is made use of in great abundance. I am told that different houses of entertainment pay the pope for a licence to serve heretics, during the season of Lent, with forbidden viands. On the following day, being Thursday, I visited the Vatican for the first time: this museum is open for public inspection every Thursday and Sunday, but it is possible to gain admittance on any other day, and also to see it in the evening by torch-light, although by a late regulation, the nocturnal parties are restricted to twelve persons at a time, as many as can see the rooms with advantage. My feelings on entering the museum of the finest sculpture in the world, were not of that rapturous nature, which I hear every amateur of this beautiful and interesting art, or even a common observer, express. No! it was not with me as with others, who, on entering the room, are struck by a collection of the finest statues bursting on their view, not knowing what first, or most to admire, being for a time lost in the confusion of delightful variety, and viewing them collectively, before they can fix their attention on any single object; how different were my feelings! for when it was announced that I was in the midst of these exquisite works of art, although my imagination was raised to the highest pitch, and well adapted to supply the deficiency of visual organs, it could but faintly convey to my mind, the impressions which an ocular inspection, as above described, must have excited. This coup d’œil, with me, was not only wanting, but I had to walk up to each statue in rotation, and listen to a tame description of its beauties. I was even not allowed the advantage of examining by the touch, as soldiers were placed in each apartment, to prevent such violation: had I been freely permitted this kind of examination, I doubt not, that I might have been as highly gratified as those who saw, for the sense of touch conveys to my mind as clear, or at least as satisfactory, ideas of the form, and I think I may add, the force of expression, as sight does to others. I did occasionally examine them in this way by stealth, when I was apprised that the soldiers’ backs were turned towards me.