The narrative of an explorer in tropical South AfricaGalton, Francis
History
The narrative of an explorer in tropical South Africa
Galton, Francis
South Africa -- Description and travel
We had a grand chase after some zebras in the early morn; a large herd
had ventured into the recess in which we were encamped during the night,
and as they returned smelt our fire and headed back. We heard them, and
everybody ran to cut them off, some with guns and some without; the
zebras made a round and galloped through a narrow gorge within arm’s
length of those who were there. We could not carry our sleeping things
up the mountain, as they were too heavy, but I took a small plaid. I was
very unwell, but tried to battle off my fever. John St. Helena, Gabriel,
and the Damaras, were left to watch the cattle below—while Hans and I
and the Ghou Damup climbed for two hours over smooth slabs, most of the
time without shoes for fear of slipping. The slabs over which the only
path lay were disjointed from the main rock, and enormous fissures lay
between them and it. When we travelled along the side that sloped towards
these fissures it was to me very nervous work, for my feet would not
grasp the rock, and if I had tumbled I should have explored much more of
the mountain than I desired. The measurement of these slabs is not in
feet but in hundreds of feet. Once on the top, the air was deliciously
cool, and the boulders strewn about gave shade to sit under when we
pleased. Leopards are very numerous here; they have nothing wild to feed
on except baboons and steinboks—however the Ghou Damup have plenty of
sheep and goats, and these the leopards attack. The summit of Erongo is
a succession of ravines clothed with thorn-coppice, and a great deal of
cactus; the effect is pretty, and I should much like to live there for
summer quarters. Along the ravines, a few wild fig-trees grow. After a
couple of hours of up and down walking, in which we started a magnificent
leopard, we arrived at the chief’s werft, and I liked its situation and
effect very much,—it was not in the open flat, like those of the Damaras,
who fear the neighbourhood of any cover which might conceal an advancing
enemy, but among trees. It was also built more durably. The Damara huts
have but one room; they are like those I described at Walfisch Bay;
these were rather complicated. The frame-work of the hut was generally
made by growing trees, a clump of which was selected and their lower
branches thinned; then the tops were bent down and _pleached_ together;
the trees in the middle dividing the huts into two or even three rooms.
The shape on the outside was like a snail-shell, the entrance faced to
the leeward. Going into the chief’s hut, the entrance led straight into
the main apartment, on either side of which were rooms, one of them for
the chief’s wife. There were plenty of utensils about, such as wooden
milk-bowls, pipes, and so on: there was a stuffed ottoman, and the whole
place had a great appearance of comfort. The chief was a gentleman,
and very courteous. Though Hottentot was his language, yet he spoke a
little Damara, in which language we talked to him. He had a charming
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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