The pitch most highly esteemed in Italy for preparing vessels for storing wine, is that which comes from Bruttium. It is made from the resin that distils from the pitch-tree; that which is used in Spain is held in but little esteem, being the produce of the wild pine; it is bitter, dry, and of a disagreeable smell. While speaking of the wild trees in a succeeding Book,[1527] we shall make mention of the different varieties of pitch, and the methods used in preparing it. The defects in resin, besides those which[1528] we have already mentioned, are a certain degree of acridity, or a peculiar smoky flavour, while the great fault in pitch is the being over-burnt. The ordinary test of its goodness is a certain luminous appearance when broken to pieces; it ought to stick, too, to the teeth, with a pleasant, tart flavour. In Asia, the pitch which is most esteemed is that of Mount Ida, in Greece of Pieria; but Virgil[1529] gives the preference to the Narycian[1530] pitch. The more careful makers mix with the wine black mastich, which comes from Pontus,[1531] and resembles bitumen in appearance, as also iris[1532]-root and oil. As to coating the vessels with wax, it has been found that the wine is apt to turn acid:[1533] it is a better plan to put wine in vessels that have held vinegar, than in those which have previously contained sweet wine or mulsum. Cato[1534] recommends that wines should be got up—_concinnari_ is his word—by putting of lie-ashes boiled down with defrutum, one-fortieth part to the culeus, or else a pound and a half of salt, with pounded marble as well: he makes mention of sulphur also, but only gives the very last place to resin. When the fermentation of the wine is coming to an end, he recommends the addition of the must to which he gives the name of “tortivum,”[1535] meaning that which is pressed out the very last of all. For the purpose of colouring wine we also add certain substances as a sort of pigment, and these have a tendency to give it a body as well. By such poisonous sophistications is this beverage compelled to suit our tastes, and then we are surprised that it is injurious in its effects! It is a proof that wine is beginning to turn bad, if a plate of lead, on being put in it, changes its colour.[1536] CHAP. 26.—VINEGAR—LEES OF WINE. It is a peculiarity of wine, among the liquids, to become mouldy, or else to turn to vinegar. There are whole volumes which treat of the various methods of preventing this. The lees of wine when dried will take fire and burn without the addition of fuel: the ashes so produced have very much the nature of nitre,[1537] and similar virtues; the more so, indeed, the more unctuous they are to the touch. CHAP. 27. (21.)—WINE-VESSELS—WINE-CELLARS.