Lovage[1191] grows wild in the mountains of Liguria, its native country, but at the present day it is grown everywhere. The cultivated kind is the sweetest of the two, but is far from powerful; by some persons it is known as “panax.” Crateuas, a Greek writer, gives this name, however, to the plant known to us as “cunila bubula;”[1192] and others, again, call the conyza[1193] or cunilago, cunila, while they call cunila,[1194] properly so called, by the name of “thymbra.” With us cunila has another appellation, being generally known as “satureia,” and reckoned among the seasoning plants. It is usually sown in the month of February, and for utility rivals wild marjoram. These two plants are never used together, their properties being so extremely similar; but it is only the wild marjoram of Egypt that is considered superior to cunila. CHAP. 51.—DITTANDER. Dittander,[1195] too, was originally an exotic plant: it is usually sown after the west winds have begun to prevail. As soon as it begins to shoot, it is cut down close to the ground, after which it is hoed and manured, a process which is repeated the succeeding year. After this, the shoots are fit for use, if the rigour of the winter has not injured them; for it is a plant quite unable to withstand any inclemency[1196] of the weather. It grows to the height of a cubit, and has a leaf like that of the laurel,[1197] but softer; it is never used except in combination with milk. CHAP. 52.—GITH. Gith[1198] is employed by bakers, dill and anise by cooks and medical men. Sacopenium,[1199] so extensively used for adulterating laser, is also a garden plant, but is only employed for medicinal purposes. CHAP. 53.—THE POPPY. There are certain plants which are grown in company[1200] with others, the poppy, for instance, sown with cabbages and purslain, and rocket with lettuce. Of the cultivated poppy[1201] there are three kinds, the first being the white[1202] poppy, the seed of which, parched, and mixed with honey, used to be served up in the second course at the tables of the ancients; at the present day, too, the country people sprinkle it on the upper crust of their bread, making it adhere by means of the yolk of eggs, the under crust being seasoned with parsley and gith to heighten the flavour of the flour. The second kind is the black[1203] poppy, from which, upon an incision being made in the stalk, a milky juice distils; and the third is that known to the Greeks by the name of “rhœas;”[1204] and by us as the wild poppy. This last grows spontaneously, but in fields, more particularly, which have been sown with barley: it bears a strong resemblance to rocket, grows to the height of a cubit, and bears a red flower, which quickly fades; it is to this flower that it is indebted for its Greek name.[1205]