Natural history -- Nicaragua; Nicaragua -- Description and travel
They poled the boat for two miles down a small river that emptied
into the lake, but just before we reached it, the boatmen stopped
and said it was too rough to proceed that night, and
notwithstanding our remonstrances they tied the boat to some
bushes. Our cramped position was very irksome; the river was
bordered by swamps, so that we could not land, and thousands of
mosquitoes came about and rendered sleep impossible. About
midnight, the moon rose, and two hours later we prevailed on the
boatmen to set sail, but, notwithstanding their excuse about it
being too rough, there was so little wind that we made slow
progress. At eight we went on shore, where there was a hut built
close by the lake below Masaya. The lake was flooded, and the water
had been over the floor of the hut during the night. All around
were swamps, and the mosquitoes were intolerable. We could buy no
food at the miserable shanty, and soon set sail again. A little
more wind afterwards springing up, we reached Los Cocos at eleven
o'clock. There is a small village at this place, where we got
breakfast cooked, and did justice to it. We hired horses to take us
to Granada; but as the road for a league further on was overflown
by the lake, we went on in the boat, and a boy took the horses
round to meet us, swimming them across the worst places.
Glad we were to get on horseback again, and to canter along a hard
sandy road, instead of sitting cramped up in a little boat, with
the sun's rays pouring down on us. The path led amongst the bushes,
and was sometimes overflowed, but the soil was sandy, and there was
no mud. All the beach was submerged, or we should have ridden along
it. The last time I had passed by this part of the lake was in July
1868. Then the waters of the lake were low, and we rode along the
sandy beach, black in some parts with titanic iron sand. The beach
resembled that of a sea-coast, with the waves rolling in upon it,
and to the south-east the water extended to the horizon. Along the
shore were strewn shells thrown up by the surf; and on examining
them, I found them all to belong to well-known old-world
genera--Unio, Planorbis, Ancylus, and Ampullari.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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