Looking back, they saw the city spread out in brilliant panorama, clear
and beautiful in the morning radiance. Packed and dense it lay,
buttressed by the weather-stained ramparts which legend says were built
by the women while their husbands were at war, and backed by the green
heights of Ancon, against which the foreign houses nestled. Set in the
foreground, like an ivory carving, was the Government Theatre, while
away beyond it loomed the Tivoli.
Noting armed sentinels pacing the sea wall at a certain spot, Kirk
called his companion's attention to them.
"That's Chiriqui Prison, isn't it?" he asked.
"Yes. They say some of the dungeons are almost under the sea. It must
be a terrible place."
"I've developed a morbid interest in jails," he remarked. "I'm quite an
authority on them. I think, however, I won't experiment with this
one--I don't like the view."
"Yes, it's an unhealthy spot, according to all accounts. I'm sure you'd
get rheumatism, at least. By-the-way, do you notice the thickness of
those walls? They say that a king of Spain was seen standing at his
palace window one day staring anxiously toward the west. When a
courtier presumed to ask him what he was looking at, he said, 'I am
searching for those costly walls of Panama. They ought to be visible
even from here.' They cost ten million dollars, you know, when dollars
were worth a good deal more than they are now. Look! There's Taboga."
Following her gaze, Kirk beheld a mountain of amethyst rising out of
the bay. Behind them the shores stretched away into misty distances,
while low mountains, softened by a delicate purple, rolled up from the
jungle plain. Ahead of them the turquoise waters were dotted by islets
whose heights were densely overgrown, while sands of coral whiteness
ringed their shore lines. Here and there a fleet of fishing-boats
drifted. Far out in the roadstead lay two cruisers, slate-gray and
grim. The waters over-side purled soothingly, the heavens beamed, the
breeze was like a gentle caress. The excursionists lost themselves in
silent enjoyment.
Even before they had come to anchor a dozen boatmen were racing for
them and crying for their patronage. At the water's edge they saw a
tiny village nestled close against the mountains, its tiled roofs
rust-red and grown to moss, its walls faded by wind and weather to
delicate mauves and dove colors and greens impossible to describe. Up
against the slope a squat 'dobe chapel sat, while just beyond reach of
the tide was a funny little pocket-size plaza, boasting a decrepit
fountain and an iron fence eaten by the salt. Backing it all was a
marvellous verdure, tipped up on edge, or so it seemed, and cleared in
spots for pineapples.
The launch, when it came to rest, seemed suspended in air, and beneath
it lay an entrancing sea-garden. Once the engine had stopped its
clatter, a sleepy, peaceful silence settled over the harbor, unbroken
by wheel or whistle, for in Taboga no one works and there are no
vehicles.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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