The New Eldorado: A Summer Journey to AlaskaBallou, Maturin M. (Maturin Murray)
History
The New Eldorado: A Summer Journey to Alaska
Ballou, Maturin M. (Maturin Murray)
Alaska -- Description and travel; West (U.S.) -- Description and travel
The greatest care is necessary to keep spirituous liquors away from the
aborigines, a craving for which is beyond their control where there is a
possibility of its being obtained. When they fall under its influence
they seem to utterly lose their senses, and become dangerous both to
themselves and to the whites. As has been intimated, the only means of
locomotion is afforded by the watercourses, and the natives, being
excellent canoeists, find ample employment of this nature, both in
traversing the rivers and along the shore of the islands. The waters of
the Yukon, like those of the Neva at St. Petersburg, freeze to a depth
of five or six feet in winter.
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CHAPTER XIII.
Sailing Northward.—Chinese Labor.—Unexplored Islands.—The Alexander
Archipelago.—Rich Virgin Soil.—Fish Canning.—Myriads of Salmon.—Native
Villages.—Reckless Habits.—Awkward Fashions and their Origin.—
Tattooing Young Girls.—Peculiar Effect of Inland Passages.—Mountain
Echoes.—Moonlight and Midnight on the Sea.
Let us observe more order in these notes, and resume the course of our
experiences in consecutive form.
As we speed on our sinuous course northward, inhaling with delight the
pure and balmy atmosphere, bearing always a little westerly, winding
through narrow channels which divide the richly wooded wilderness of
islands, avoiding here and there the ambuscaded reefs, the pleasurable
sensation is intense. The scenery, while in some respects similar to
that of the St. Lawrence River and the Hudson of New York, is yet
infinitely superior to either. After having reached latitude 54° 40′ we
come upon Dixon Entrance, a reach of the sea which separates Alaska from
British Columbia, and from this point we are sailing exclusively in the
purple shadow of our own shore, and in the waters of the United States.
At times we pass islands as large as the State of Massachusetts, whose
picturesque and irregular mountainous surfaces are covered with
immemorial trees, and whose unknown interiors are believed to be rich in
coal, iron, silver, and other metals. The axe has never echoed in the
deep shade of these dense plantations of nature; they form a pathless
wilderness, solemn and silent, save for the stealthy tread of wild
beasts, the mournful music of waving pines, and the occasional notes of
wandering seabirds. The migratory flocks of the tropics as a rule go
farther north to raise their broods, but a few, weary of wing, shorten
their aerial journey and build nests on these islands. For many
centuries past the great columnar trees have grown to mammoth size, and
have then fallen only by the weight of years, enriching the ground with
their decayed substance and giving place to another similar growth,
which, in its turn, has also flourished and passed away. How like the
course of human races! This process has been going on perhaps for twice
ten thousand years.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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