The New Eldorado: A Summer Journey to AlaskaBallou, Maturin M. (Maturin Murray)
History
The New Eldorado: A Summer Journey to Alaska
Ballou, Maturin M. (Maturin Murray)
Alaska -- Description and travel; West (U.S.) -- Description and travel
At every landing made by the steamer on our meandering course among the
islands Indians come to the wharves to offer their curios or home-made
articles, only valuable as souvenirs of the visit. As they mass
themselves here and there, either on the shore or the ship’s deck, they
form picturesque groups, made up of bucks, squaws, and papooses,
presenting charming bits of color, while they amuse the stranger by
their peculiar physiognomy and manners. During the excursion season they
must reap quite a harvest by the sale of baskets and various domestic
trinkets.
After leaving Fort Wrangel we are soon in the wild, picturesque, and
sinuous narrows which bear the same name. The water is shallow; here and
there are many dangerous rocks in the channels. Inlets or fjords are
often passed, so quiet and inviting in their appearance as to tempt the
traveler to diverge from the usual route. Some of these marine nooks are
deep enough to float the largest ship, yet far down through the clear
water one can see gardens of zoöphytes invaded by myriads of curiously
shaped fish, large and small. The bottom of these waters, like the land
and sea of Alaska, teems with animal life. A few hours’ dredging would
supply the most enthusiastic naturalist with ample material for a year’s
study. In the many stops of the steamer to take or deliver freight,
brief boat excursions can be enjoyed. On one of these occasions we saw
the first live octopus, or devil-fish, with two of its fatal arms
encircling a small fish, which, after squeezing out its life, the
octopus would devour. The one which was seen on this occasion was not
very large, the rounded body being, perhaps, eighteen or twenty inches
across, but its vicious looking tentacles, six in number, two of which
securely clasped its victim, were each three times that length. The
large eyes seemed out of proportion to the animal’s size, and were
placed on one side like those of the flounder.
The Patterson glacier is the first of the many which come into view on
this part of the voyage, but they multiply rapidly as we steam
northward. It is vast in proportions, though partly hidden behind the
moraine which it has raised. Three or four miles back from its front
rises a wall of solid ice nearly a thousand feet in height. The whole
was rendered marvelously beautiful, lighted up as we saw it by bright
noonday sunshine, which brought out its frosty and opaline colors of
white, scarlet, and blue, in brilliant array. Little has been written
about the Patterson glacier, but it is one of the most remarkable in
size and other characteristics in all Alaska. Vessels from San Francisco
have taken whole cargoes of ice from these Alaskan glaciers and
transported the same for use in California. There seems to be no reason
why the gathering of such a supply should not be both possible and
profitable, though ice can now be so easily manufactured by artificial
means.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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