The New Eldorado: A Summer Journey to AlaskaBallou, Maturin M. (Maturin Murray)
History
The New Eldorado: A Summer Journey to Alaska
Ballou, Maturin M. (Maturin Murray)
Alaska -- Description and travel; West (U.S.) -- Description and travel
Juneau, located one hundred and fifty miles southeast of Sitka, and
about three hundred north of Fort Wrangel, is already a considerable
mining centre, with a population of about four thousand, situated not
far from Takou district, and is the depot for the rich quartz and placer
mines which are located in the region back of it. The site of the town
is picturesque, being at the base of an abrupt mountain cliff which is
decked with sparkling cascades. We were told that there is a rise and
fall of twenty-four feet in the tide at the wharf of Juneau, but think
perhaps eighteen feet would be nearer correct. The winter population is
swelled by the influx of miners when the placers are not worked owing to
snow and ice. Truth compels us to say that the residents here, of both
sexes, are far from being of a desirable class. The Indians of this
vicinity are of the Auk and Takou tribes; good traders and good hunters,
but enemies of each other, though not given to open hostility. The
native women, as if not content with the natural ugliness which has been
liberally bestowed upon them by Providence, besmear their faces with a
compound of seal-oil and lampblack, but for what possible reason, except
that it is aboriginal Alaska fashion, one cannot divine. It is said that
this is a sort of mourning for departed relations or friends; but the
hilarity of those thus marked was anything but an indication of sorrow.
We can well remember Yokohama wives, with blackened teeth and shaved
eyebrows, who looked, if possible, a degree worse than these Alaskan
women. In the latter case, however, the wives confessedly sought to make
themselves hideous to prevent jealousy on the part of their husbands;
but the native women here do not assign any plausible reason for
smooching themselves in this offensive manner. When their faces are
washed, a circumstance of rare occurrence, they are as white as the
average of white people who are exposed to an out-of-door life. It is
not the practice of the aborigines of either sex to wash themselves with
water. They are sometimes seen to besmear their faces and hands with
oil, which they carefully wipe off with a wisp of dry grass, or other
substitute for the towel of civilization. The effect is to make the
features shine like varnished mahogany; but as to cleanliness obtained
by such a process, that does not follow.
If it were possible to discover a soap mine here there might be some
hopes of introducing among the natives that condition which common
acceptation places next to godliness. A traveling companion remarked
that although milk and honey could not be said to flow in this
neighborhood, oil does.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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