The New Eldorado: A Summer Journey to AlaskaBallou, Maturin M. (Maturin Murray)
History
The New Eldorado: A Summer Journey to Alaska
Ballou, Maturin M. (Maturin Murray)
Alaska -- Description and travel; West (U.S.) -- Description and travel
One cannot but conjecture what must have been the secret thoughts of the
thousands of aborigines on this occasion, as they witnessed the ceremony
of transferring Alaska from their former to their new masters. It was an
event of immense interest, of most vital import to them, but yet one in
which they were entirely ignored. They knew the significance of that
change of flags, of that roar of artillery, emphasized by other naval
and military movements, but they had no voice whatever in the agreement
by which they were virtually bought and sold like so many head of
cattle, and their native land bartered for gold. We leave the reader to
moralize over this aspect of the matter, a fruitful theme for the
political economist. With this change of government came a new people;
the majority of the Russians promptly left the country, and their places
were taken by Americans.
Sitka, the capital of the Territory, is sheltered by a snow-crowned
mountain range on one side, and protected from the broad expanse of the
Pacific on the other by a group of many thickly wooded islands. The
waters of the harbor are as clear as a mountain stream, so that, as in
sailing over the Bahama Banks, one can see the bottom many fathoms down
with perfect distinctness, where the myriad curiosities of submarine
life attract the eye by their novel and varied display. Among other
tropical growth, sponges, coral branches, and long rope-like algæ are
seen, planted here doubtless by the equatorial current which so
constantly laves these shores. The town lies clustered near the shore,
forming a pleasing picture as one approaches from the sea. The most
prominent feature is the castle, not a battlemented, ivy-covered,
mediæval structure, but a severely plain, weather-beaten, moss-grown,
dilapidated affair, which crowns a rocky elevation of the town. It is a
hundred and forty feet long by seventy deep, constructed of huge cedar
logs which are securely riveted to the rock by numerous clamps and
bolts. This was for many years the grand residence of the Russian
governors,—after the capital was removed from St. Paul, on the island of
Kodiak,—several of whom were of the Muscovite nobility and brought
hither their wives and daughters to live with them in this isolated
spot. One can hardly conceive of a greater social contrast than
naturally existed between St. Petersburg and this half savage hamlet of
Baranoff Island. For delicate and refined ladies, such a change from
court life must have been little less of a hardship than actual
banishment to dreaded Siberia.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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