The New Eldorado: A Summer Journey to AlaskaBallou, Maturin M. (Maturin Murray)
History
The New Eldorado: A Summer Journey to Alaska
Ballou, Maturin M. (Maturin Murray)
Alaska -- Description and travel; West (U.S.) -- Description and travel
At times the river rushes through deep rocky ravines, and at others
expands into broad shallows with glittering sand bars, on which eager
groups of miners are seen washing for gold. We cross a deep, cavernous
gorge of the river on a graceful steel bridge, which, though doubtless
of ample strength, yet seems of spider-web proportions, then plunge into
a dark tunnel to emerge directly amid scenery of the wildest nature, set
with huge bowlders and noisy with boiling flumes and roaring cascades,
where color, splendor, and inspiration greet us at each turn, while
every object is softened by the pale afternoon sunlight.
By and by we pass up the valley of the Thomson River, a tributary of the
Fraser, finding ourselves presently in what is called the Gold, or
Columbian, range of mountains, a grand snow-clad series of hills. Our
route through them for nearly fifty miles is in the form of a deep,
narrow pass between vertical cliffs, forming land channels similar to
the water-ways which we have lately left behind us in the Alexander
Archipelago.
At the small stations boys and girls board the cars with tiny baskets of
luscious blackberries and ripe raspberries for sale, soon disposing of
them to the passengers. These are picked within a dozen rods of the
railway track, where they are seen in great abundance. Wild flowers
beautify the roadway, among which the most attractive are the
golden-rod, the bright pink fire-weed, the towering and graceful spirea,
the wild musk with its large bell-shaped scarlet flower, the fragrant
tansy, with snow-ball clusters of white, and big patches of the tiny
wild sunflower, its petals in deepest yellow, while among the lily-pads
dotting the pools of water, orange-hued lilies are in full and gorgeous
bloom.
The scenery is strictly Alpine, but constantly varies as our point of
view changes, and we thread miles upon miles of snow-sheds. Heavy veils
of mist fringe the mountain-tops, and the tall peaks are wrapped in
winding-sheets of perpetual snow. The rugged scenery is fine, but finer
is yet to come. Still climbing upwards, we are presently in the
Selkirks, threading tunnels, dark gorges, sombre cañons, and narrow
passes to the summit of this remarkable range, forced onward by two
powerful engines, one in the rear the other in front of the train.
At a point known as Albert Cañon the railway runs along the brink of
several dark fissures in the solid rock, three hundred feet deep,
through which rushes the turbulent waters of the Illicilliwaet River
(“Raging Waters”). Here the cars are stopped for a few moments that the
passengers may the better observe the boiling flumes of angry waters,
flecked with patches of foam, and compressed within granite walls
scarcely twenty feet apart.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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