The New Eldorado: A Summer Journey to AlaskaBallou, Maturin M. (Maturin Murray)
History
The New Eldorado: A Summer Journey to Alaska
Ballou, Maturin M. (Maturin Murray)
Alaska -- Description and travel; West (U.S.) -- Description and travel
In the region between Vancouver and Queen Charlotte Island we cross an
open reach of the sea, and while the Pacific swell tosses us about after
the usual erratic fashion of its unpacific waters, we observe a few
ocean sights which serve pleasantly to vary the experience of the trip.
A school of humpback whales put in an appearance, full of sport and
frolic, in such extraordinary numbers that three or four are seen in the
act of spouting all the while. In spots the sea is yellow, where its
surface is covered for acres together with that animated food for other
piscatory creatures, the jelly-fish. The shining, furry head of a
sea-lion comes up to the surface now and again, gazing curiously at us
with big, glassy eyes, and turning its face nimbly from side to side. A
school of porpoises play about the hull of the steamer, leaping high out
of the water and falling back again in graceful curves. The only shark
we chanced to meet with on the entire voyage was observed in our wake
just before entering Smith’s Sound, south of Calvert Island. In this
region the huge gona-bird was seen sailing slowly on the wing, recalling
the albatross of the low latitudes in its long, lazy sweeps, as well as
by its size and gracefulness. These bird-monarchs of the north measure
eight feet from tip to tip, and glide with or against the wind on their
broad, outspread pinions without the least visible muscular exertion, a
mystery of motive power which is sure to challenge the observer’s
curiosity.
In the narrow passages the tall peaks, arched by the soft gray of the
clouds and the clear blue of the sky, cast deep shadows where the water
looked like pools of ink, whose blackness intensified the fact of their
great but unknown depth.
The American whalers have never been accustomed to seek their big game
in these immediate waters, preferring to attack the leviathans in lesser
depths, such as the waters of Behring Sea, or farther north in the
vicinity of the strait, between the frozen ocean and the North Pacific.
There, if a whale dove after being struck by the harpoon, he was sure
very soon to fetch up in the muddy bottom; but here, among the channels
of the islands, he might dive, and dive again, to almost any depth, and
unless great care was taken he was liable in his lightning-like velocity
to carry down with him a whole boat’s crew and all their belongings.
Were it not that the whaling industry has gradually declined here, as it
has done in all other sections of the globe, the possession of Alaska,
with its great number of safe harbors, would be an invaluable boon to
those of our countrymen engaged in that branch of commercial enterprise.
Inland sea travel is the perfection of steamboating, but the
rapidly-changing landscape of these wild Alaskan shores, rimmed with
sharp volcanic peaks, at last wearies the senses, and one is forced to
seek a brief intermission by finding rest in sleep, only, however, to
again renew the charm with greater zest on the morrow.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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