I am now relating the experiences of a student of hygienic epicureanism
and am not considering money economy alone. Were mental or even
physical improvement in efficiency to be purchased at high prices, and
lack of efficiency could be had for nothing, the high-priced article
would be well worth its cost, no matter what it might be, for the
reason that total lack of efficiency is equivalent to death and any
proportionate lack is the next thing to death. Hence it is not a money
economic reform that is being advocated, and this must be borne in mind.
When I am in New York I very often take a room at the Waldorf-Astoria
because it has become, by common consent, the suburban and country
business and social clearing house of the whole United States; and
hence, coming from Europe periodically as I do, and always anxious to
meet old friends from San Francisco, New Orleans, Boston, Washington,
the great cities of the Middle West, or elsewhere, it is more easily
accomplished by camping at the Waldorf than in any other way. I cannot
be a profitable guest of this or any hotel kept on the European plan,
but I try to make up for this deficiency in other ways. Just across
Sixth Avenue from the Waldorf, on Thirty-Fourth Street, is one of the
most pretentious of the so-called "dairy lunches." In these places
good, appetising, wholesome food is served quickly and in _decently
small portions_. For this very reason alone, I _prefer_ the crowd and
the noise of the dairy lunch to the quiet and the luxury of the Waldorf
café or dining-room. One would not object to paying a larger price
at the more quiet place of service, but prodigality seems to be the
present great American sin. Were it a mere waste of money or even of
the food, it would not be worthy of great discussion; for when the fool
and his money are parted the laugh is on him with no grain of sympathy,
and there already being a great surplus of food in the land, there is
no fear of famine. But with this prodigality prevalent, so that to have
a decent variety one must have put before him enough for a family, the
temptation to grossly overeat is great and the abuse is criminal.
It is the hope of the author that some enterprising Boldt will
inaugurate an epicurean service and charge well enough for it to pay
for the trouble, or better yet, in proportion to the quantity wanted.
In this regard the poor do not suffer directly, but the example of the
rich is the perverter of the poor in many ways, and surely in this item
of dietetic abuse.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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