India -- Description and travel; India -- Politics and government -- 1765-1947
How far this hideous collection of symbols is itself worshipped is
the problem of all imagery and symbolic art. A priest of Kali, who
had himself received a religious education in one of our missionary
colleges, told me that in the hour of prayer he found that the image
helped him to concentrate his thoughts upon that idea of universal
force. He admitted that some unlearned worshippers obscurely
connect a supernatural power with the actual image as it stands;
and the great desire of many to draw near, and even to touch the
representation of the god, seems to prove it, as one may see in all
temples and churches where symbolism prevails. It is rather strange
that Indians, with their beautiful sense of colour and design,
should content themselves with unusually hideous gods; for, grand
as the figure of Buddha in contemplation is, it stands alone in its
beauty, and now no longer appears in Hindu forms of worship. Yet the
adoration of the Mother Kali, even at the bloodstained Kalighat,
does not appear to be more horrible or debasing than the service of
other gods. In divine worship, devotion has never corresponded to
external beauty; and as to the blood sacrifice, that custom has been
too universal, and is still too recent even in the highest forms of
religion, to excite horror or disgust, except in the tourists who go
to enjoy the spectacle. It seemed to me that the Kali worship did not
suggest the violence of bloodshed, still less the common lust that
visitors are told to associate with it, but rather a certain heat
or fervency that pervades and sometimes obscures the Bengali mind,
taking the form in some of exaltation, in others of oratory, and now
and then of fluid speech.
All know this crowded Kalighat. But turn northward again; pass
the Lieutenant-Governor’s beautiful Residency at Belvedere;
pass the racecourse and polo-grounds, the old Fort where the
Commander-in-Chief has his headquarters, and the Strand where
steamers smoke on the river and the English drive slowly up and down
in the evening; pass the white Government House where the Viceroy
lives in winter, and the dull streets of English shops where they
sell things that are not quite good enough for England or quite bad
enough for the Colonies; enter the squalid chaos of the Indian city,
so ordinary and colourless compared to Bombay or Madras; pass through
mile after mile of crowded bazaars, and teeming slums, and factories
jumbled up with temples;—till at last the buildings begin, as it
were, to shake themselves loose, green reappears, and when you come
upon the river on your left, it looks almost clean and holy; palms
and other trees grow on the banks, and there is a sense of escape
in the air. There you will find another temple of Kali, spacious,
silent, and a home of peace.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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