India -- Description and travel; India -- Politics and government -- 1765-1947
Certainly I noticed signs of a practical intelligence that might be
called dry. Hour after hour, on a steaming afternoon, I listened to
the Madras members of the municipal corporation arguing in protest
against the English members and officials about the position of
standpipes, and the adulteration of ghee with oil, and of rice with
sand, while the President, in the broadest Scots, kept calling on
them to address the chair, or declaring their motion lost. When
I was in Madras also, the Decentralization Commission, under Mr.
Charles Hobhouse, at that time Under-Secretary for India, began its
session, and the educated citizens followed the chaotic windings
of its questions and evidence with minute accuracy, all the more
eager, perhaps, because Mr. Romesh Dutt, the national authority on
Indian economics, was among the Commissioners. It was even more
significant that Madras, the devoted home of Hinduism and of Vishnu’s
worshippers, should have steadily chosen her leading Mohammedan
citizen as her representative upon the Viceroy’s Council. One may
call this a sign of practical intelligence and the dry light of
reason, because they could not have chosen a better member than Nawab
Syed Mohammed, descendant of our old enemy Tippoo Sultan, and their
deep sense of religion did not deter them from the choice. Calm,
modest, and generally silent but for a few definite words thrown into
a discussion, he seemed an ideal member for any Council.
Yet, though the boast of reason’s dry light is justified, the
pervading tone of Madras, and probably of all Southern India, is
not practical logic, but imaginative religion. One sometimes finds
the two things in attractive combination. I had gone out one early
morning to visit the god in his beautiful temple at Mailapur, not
very far from the widespread “compounds” of park and garden, where
the happy English and a few rich Indians reside, two or three miles
inland from the sea and the jumbled “Black Town” of crowded natives.
There, as I stood by the edge of the temple tank covered with the
lotus, I came upon an elderly Hindu reading at the door of his modest
home. The verandah was partly arranged as a stable for the sacred
cow, partly laid with mats for beggars, wanderers, or religious
teachers who might be seeking a shelter for the night. The man had
bathed in the tank and washed his only garment of a long cotton
cloth, as he did every morning himself, following the cleanly and
chivalrous Indian custom. He was a schoolmaster, with a fixed salary
of £3 6_s._ 8_d._ a month. Upon this he mainly supported his sons and
their wives and children, all of whom lived in his house, under the
direction of his widowed mother, who arranged which of the married
couples should occupy the married quarters in turn, as there was
not room to supply married quarters for all. In gratitude for her
services, and in reverence for motherhood, “which is the centre of
human life,” he told me how every morning members of the family
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