India -- Description and travel; India -- Politics and government -- 1765-1947
Since England killed the Indian cotton industry for the benefit of
Lancashire, first by imposing duties on imports from India, and
then by the present excise of 3½ per cent. upon Indian cottons
manufactured for India itself, that ancient fame is chiefly found in
museum specimens of past splendour, and in lingering words like the
French “Indienne” for calico print. Even in Dacca the very finest
muslin, such as the cows used to lick up with the grass, feeling
no difference between it and gossamer, is no longer made. It has
fallen out, partly owing to Manchester, partly because there are no
longer enough rich Indians to buy it. But still the great caste of
weavers have clung to their hand-looms as fondly as starving ryots
cling to the land. There is hardly any difference of race in Bengal,
but it so happens that nearly all the weavers are Mohammedans,
descended from the old Hindu families who changed their religion to
please their conquerors in the days when Dacca itself was an Islam
capital of empire. In the last three years, the Swadeshi movement,
which officials have told Lord Morley is specially abhorrent to
Mohammedans, has enormously increased their industry. It has revived
the ancient craft just as it was dying, and so I found the weavers
in every town and village sitting on the floor, with legs stuck
under the wooden loom, plying their thin-spun thread with hereditary
skill—plying it sometimes under water, so that a woman’s skin should
hardly feel a stuff so fine and soft.
But one can never be sure how long a handicraft, no matter how
beautiful, can hold its own against the mills. Even under Swadeshi
the hand-looms will probably disappear, and the main produce of
Eastern Bengal is no longer the most delicate fabric in the world,
but the roughest. It is jute. It is not literally true that this
dark and fibrous plant, something between a mallow and a flax, grows
only in East Bengal, but it grows best there, and almost all that
is used in the jute factories of Dundee is imported from this land
of rivers. I believe it was through the Dundee shippers, not more
than one generation ago, that jute first came to the Tay, but since
then the prosperity of the jute wives on the Tay has varied with the
prosperity of the peasant wives on the Ganges, and, unhappily, it has
often varied inversely.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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