The Newmarket, Bury, Thetford and Cromer Road: Sport and history on an East Anglian turnpikeHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Newmarket, Bury, Thetford and Cromer Road: Sport and history on an East Anglian turnpike
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; England -- Social life and customs
When this, now a side route into Thetford, was supplemented by that of
the present main road over the “St. Christopher’s,” or Town Bridge, must
be a matter of conjecture. We must not suppose, because that bridge was
built only in 1697, there was no bridge or road up to the river and into
the town before that time. Morden’s map of Norfolk in 1695 does not mark
one; but it is incredible that there should have been no direct
communication across a not very broad stream between these Suffolk
suburbs and the chief part of the town. On the other hand, the fact that
a ducking-stool was erected on the “Nuns’ Bridge” in 1578 would seem to
prove that this was certainly then the chief approach, for the practice
was to make the head-over-ears ducking of the scolds and shrews as
public an exhibition of their shame as possible.
XXXV
THE most prominent hostelry at Thetford in coaching days was the “Bell,”
and it still occupies that geographical pre-eminence, even though its
commercial importance has decayed. The “Bell,” in fact, has never
recovered from the blow dealt it in 1846, when the coaches ceased to
run, and overhangs the narrow street, its great courtyard a world too
large for the diminished traffic.
Lord Albemarle has a good deal to say of the “Bell” in his book of
reminiscences. As a young man, travelling about 1810 between London and
Elveden Hall, then in the possession of his family, he sometimes, in
common with the sporting youngsters of that age, had the opportunity of
driving the Mail for a stage or two. It was not always, indeed, an
opportunity desired by the passenger who shared the box-seat with the
coachman, for those who sought that glorious elevation, paying rather
heavily for the privilege in the form of a tip to the yard-porter who
reserved the seat and in a series of drinks to the successive Jehus who
drove, were, much more often than is generally supposed, quite content
to let the coachman do the driving. Comparatively few were ever to be
found skilled in the difficult art of guiding four horses, and not every
box-seat passenger was eager to “take the ribbons.” The coachmen, on any
quiet stretch of road, were generally more keen to make the offer of
“taking ’em for a bit” than their passengers to accept, for those
professional occupants of the box were, in the well-known etiquette of
coaching, always sure of half a sovereign as a tip from the sportsman
who “took ’em,” and when, from sheer timidity, their offer was not
accepted, they were indignant, especially if some one who _would_ have
“taken ’em,” and tipped accordingly, was elsewhere on the coach. Under
such harrowing circumstances a coachman generally felt himself to be
defrauded. “What are you ’ere for, then?” asked such an one of his
box-seat passenger who had declined the honour and glory—and the danger;
and when, after a halt for refreshment, the passengers resumed their
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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