The Newmarket, Bury, Thetford and Cromer Road: Sport and history on an East Anglian turnpikeHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Newmarket, Bury, Thetford and Cromer Road: Sport and history on an East Anglian turnpike
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; England -- Social life and customs
IT was somewhere about the beginning of the nineteenth century,
contemporaneously with the general rise of seaside resorts, that the
invigorating air of Cromer first began to attract attention, and so
early as 1806 an anonymous visitor, seeking health here, published
_Cromer: a Descriptive Poem_, a wearisome production of several hundred
lines, in blank—very blank—verse. The reader shall be spared his
rhapsodies on the sea, but his circuitous description of a taxed cart,
typical of his literary method, is not without its unconscious humour:—
Quiet the steady _Sociable_ proceeds,
No danger in its course, and in the rear
The humbler vehicle, that bears displayed,
In letters legible to ev’ry eye,
The stamp of fiscal avarice.
If brevity be, indeed, the soul of wit, how witless this laboured
effort!
If our poet could but return and his poem were to do again, he would
have to wrestle with very changed conditions, and would probably give us
something like this:—
Noisy, th’ effluvious motor-car appears,
Throbbing and shaking like a jelly:
Smelling to Heaven in pestiferous clouds
Of ill-combusted petrol, blue and beastly.
Danger in its course of twenty miles
An hour, and in the rear a frightened horse
And battered trap. Wrecking the shops,
Frightening the old ladies, upsetting the Bath chairs,
Crumpling up the casual cyclist,
And, generally, playing the very deuce
With everything, it goes. Its licence plates
Boldly inscribed, designed by law to be
Legible to ev’ry eye, artfully obscured
With wraps and rugs. Give me my gun.
And so forth. There is room for lengthy eloquence on the subject.
Cromer has in these later years become the Motor Cad’s Paradise. Here
are the gorgeous “hotels” beloved of his little soul, and here the good
roads he can render dangerous to others with little risk to himself.
A wide gulf separates the Cromer of that poet’s time and ours, but the
change that has taken place is quite recent, and astonishingly sudden.
At the close of Georgian days a certain vogue had been established, and
a Bath House was built under the cliff. This was washed away during the
storm and high tide in 1836, but the “Bath Hotel” of that period,
stuccoed, white-painted, midway between cliff-top and sea, remains,
together with a few of the early Victorian bay-windowed seaside
lodging-houses, small but comfortable, that line the narrow streets near
the cliffs’ edge. It was following this great storm of 1836 that the
first of Cromer’s defensive sea-walls was built; but the greater storm
of 1845 wrecked it and washed away the timber jetty, built in 1822, at a
cost of £1,400. What Cromer was like at this period may be judged from
the illustration, which clearly shows how, from the picturesque point of
view, it has been spoiled.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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