The Newmarket, Bury, Thetford and Cromer Road: Sport and history on an East Anglian turnpikeHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Newmarket, Bury, Thetford and Cromer Road: Sport and history on an East Anglian turnpike
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; England -- Social life and customs
For seven miles the Ditch runs, from the waters of the Cam at Reach to
the woods on the chalk hills of Wood Ditton. It is possible to walk
along the summit of the bank most of the way, for, although rough and
uneven pedestrian exercise, it is in general eighteen feet in breadth,
and remarkably like an abandoned railway embankment. It is one of the
many sites identified as the scene of Boadicea’s defeat by Suetonius
Paulinus, but we are sceptical of this particular one, although the
ancient tumulus on the outer face of the Ditch, still called the Two
Captains, points to some forgotten conflict in which two leaders were
slain and buried on the contested field.
Little is now left of this once prominent mound, once important enough
to be marked on Ordnance maps, but now ploughed nearly flat. It stands
in the third field from the road, on the right hand, a field now under
corn, but until forty years ago a wood
XX
NEWMARKET HEATH is a large place. It is easily possible to ramble on it
quite away from any sight or sound of the races and the race crowds, and
to find a solitude in its midst while eight thousand people are shouting
themselves hoarse in cheering a popular winner. While the October
meetings are in progress on one side of the Heath, the July Course, on
the other, under the shadow of the “Devil’s Ditch,” is a voiceless
solitude. You would almost think that the Iceni, who dug the Ditch, had
planned the Course, and built the Stand on it as well, so deserted of
the world they look.
Nothing can be more dreary than the sight of this simple race-stand.
Built to hold a thousand people, here it squats, an emptiness; the only
sounds those in the long sombre belt of firs, whose branches sway with a
sound of the sea in the airs that sweep the breezy Heath.
Newmarket is first mentioned in 1227, when it seems to have been
established in consequence of an epidemic raging at the mother-parish of
Exning, about two miles away. This “old market” of Exning, now a
village, owes its name, say some, to the Iceni, but it is much more
likely to have derived from the Celtic word “Exe,” for water, for the
springs there are a feature of the place. That phenomenally pious lady,
St. Etheldreda, one of the daughters of King Anna, and foundress of Ely
Cathedral, was born at Exning, and there, we are asked to believe, was
anciently a great horse-fair, to which Newmarket can trace its origin as
Metropolis of the Turf.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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