The Newmarket, Bury, Thetford and Cromer Road: Sport and history on an East Anglian turnpikeHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Newmarket, Bury, Thetford and Cromer Road: Sport and history on an East Anglian turnpike
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; England -- Social life and customs
In addition to all these stalls and booths, the sellers of “race cards”
are much in evidence, and a long procession of men with that
characteristic equipment of the racing-man, the field-glasses slung over
the shoulders, winds slowly up the long way to the Stand. These are
devotees of the great goddess Chance, who, like Justice, is blind. They
do not hurry, because they have often trod the same path: they are
neither joyful nor gloomy, but just stolid and businesslike, because
they have come this way with such a succession of varied fortune that
they take gain or loss with unchanged demeanour and equal fortitude, and
when they return you shall seek in vain to guess the luck of the day
from their unemotional countenances.
The racing is all done by 3.30 p.m., and in another hour the course is
clear, the town empty of strangers. But the inns are filled with
stable-folk and the many nondescript hangers-on of a great racing
centre. As the evening wears away even the inns clear, and at ten
o’clock all is quiet, except perhaps for a painful orchestra of three
itinerant musicians playing injuriously outside the “Black Bear.” A
drizzly rain falls and the musicians disperse, greatly to the relief of
the ear that listens, not so much because it would as because it must.
Newmarket’s race-day is done, and the cats make love, undisturbed, in
the porticoes. Only within the mansions of the great is the excitement
of the day continued, and there they play bridge until morning glints
greyly through the shutters
XXIII
[Illustration: YARD OF THE “WHITE HART,” NEWMARKET.]
THE houses of this broad street are curiously irregular. Great palatial
mansions alternate with humble taverns; the busy “White Hart” stands
next door to the Duke of Devonshire’s house, and shops elbow other
imposing residences of the great. On the right hand, as you enter the
town, is the large red-brick pile of Queensberry House, built a few
years ago by Lord Wolverton, and at first styled “Ugly House,” from a
successful racehorse of that name; and everywhere in the town its turfy
sympathies are declared in the villas christened with titles that mean
much to those versed in turf history. The customary “Elms,” “Limes,” and
“Montserrats” of villadom here give place to “Bend Or,” “St. Gatien,”
and other horsey mottoes.
But the town has every reason to regret the past. In days before
railways, a race-meeting meant these great establishments being occupied
for days at a time; now it is easily possible to return comfortably to
London in the evening, they are often in use only for a few hours, and
many have long been to let. Where the Palace stood, a Congregational
Chapel and a row of shops front the street.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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