The Newmarket, Bury, Thetford and Cromer Road: Sport and history on an East Anglian turnpikeHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Newmarket, Bury, Thetford and Cromer Road: Sport and history on an East Anglian turnpike
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; England -- Social life and customs
“Arrived at Newmarket 6 p.m., where the “Ram,” wide-opening its ravenous
maw, stood to receive us. We regale ourselves, after an expeditious
journey, upon a comfortable cup of tea, and then take a walk to the
racecourse, as far as the stands. By the way, we observe _Centaurea
calcitrapa_ plentifully. At some distance we see the Devil’s Dyke, and,
terrified with the prospect, retreat with hasty steps to supper. _Soham
cheese very fine._ _July 4th._—On going into the quadrangle of this
magnificent inn I observed a post-chaise with episcopal insignia; it
belonged to our worthy diocesan. On the panel of the chaise door I took
a new _Empis_.”
XXV
THE flat-racing season at Newmarket—and incidentally the flat-catching
season also—opens with the Craven Meeting on Easter Monday, and ends
with the Houghton, or third October Meeting, towards the close of that
month. Between these are the Second Spring, the two July, and the First
and Second October Meetings, making in all eight annual events. But
Newmarket does by no means hibernate with the end of October and merely
come to life again in the spring. When the flat-racing ends, the
hurdle-racing takes up the thread of sport, and allied with these winter
activities are the runs of the Drag Hounds.
There are many courses on the Heath: the Old Cambridgeshire, nearest the
town, where the historic Red Post, the Duke’s Stand, and some of the old
saddling-stables still remain; the long four-miles’ Beacon Course,
little used in its entirety, now that a two miles’ contest is thought a
good race; the Rowley Mile, named after Charles II., who was known among
his familiars as “Old Rowley,” either from his favourite riding-horse
being so named, or else because his sacred Majesty, so grotesque of
face, was thought to so greatly resemble a frog—and frogs are still, in
country districts, known as “Anthony Rowleys”; the Swaffham Course, and
the Bunbury Mile. There is no finer or more bracing race-ground in the
kingdom than this of Newmarket Heath, nor one so open, or where every
stage of every race can be so well followed. It has no parallel
elsewhere, and is certainly the very antithesis of Ascot, Goodwood, and
Sandown, which are ladies’ opportunities for display, as much as they
are the sportsman’s occasions for betting. Here, when the Cesarewitch
and the Two Thousand Guineas are being run off, it is a very serious and
earnest business, and toilettes only sparingly relieve the Quaker grey
of the sporting crowd.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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