The Newmarket, Bury, Thetford and Cromer Road: Sport and history on an East Anglian turnpikeHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Newmarket, Bury, Thetford and Cromer Road: Sport and history on an East Anglian turnpike
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; England -- Social life and customs
Passing over the Kennett at Kentford, where the ragged remnants of the
old bridge even yet stand in the water, beside the new, and where the
unusually good Flamboyant-traceried Gothic windows of the church,
looking down from a roadside knoll, gladden the heart of the
ecclesiologist, the character of the road becomes, like the life of a
saint on earth—flat, featureless, dull, and uninteresting. Just as the
follies and vices of the hardened sinner make the most readable
biography, so do those scenic accidents that give steep hills and
difficult roads make interest for the amateur of the picturesque. Higham
station, with the spire of Barrow church peering over distant trees, is
not of itself either remarkable or romantic, and in so far that it does
not look its real age, the toll-house standing at the cross-roads is
like those modern grandmothers whose jimp waists and springtide tresses
are the wonder of their grandchildren.
Few signs of life vary the monotony of the flat fields, and when the
roadside inn known as “Saxham White Horse,” and inappropriately endued
with a coating of red wash, opens out ahead in one of the long
perspectives, it is as though one had found an unexpected habitation in
an empty land. Risby village shows some indications, off to the left
hand, and, for so unpromising a district, is remarkably picturesque,
with rugged dingles and ridges, and a round-towered old church in a
tree-embowered lane looking as though it had been designed by Morland.
It is an Early English church, without aisles, but with a lofty chancel
arch on whose either side are elaborate stone tabernacles. A slip of
brass on the chancel floor records that
“Here lyeth the body of Mr. Edward Kirke,
Esq., 1613.”
[Illustration: LITTLE SAXHAM CHURCH.]
Returning to the road, a detour made on the other side of it, to Little
Saxham church, reveals another, and finer, tower. A great deal of
mystery has been made of the round-towered churches of East Anglia, and
antiquaries of a bygone age expended much unnecessary ingenuity in
seeking some out-of-the-way reason of ritual or defence for their
existence; but the reason of their being is simple enough. They are
found, almost exclusively in England, in these eastern counties, where
building-stone does not exist. Norfolk has no fewer than 125 of these
round towers, and Suffolk 40. Essex has 7, and Cambridgeshire only 2.
The greatest number are found where flint is plentiful, for they are
constructed chiefly of that material, and the circular walls have that
shape because it is thus possible to dispense with the stone quoins
necessary for binding the angles of square buildings. In a word, the
round towers are round for the same reason that compels a man to wear a
silver watch when he would like a gold chronometer—they were less
expensive.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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