The Newmarket, Bury, Thetford and Cromer Road: Sport and history on an East Anglian turnpikeHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Newmarket, Bury, Thetford and Cromer Road: Sport and history on an East Anglian turnpike
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; England -- Social life and customs
At the crossing of the little Kennett we finally leave Cambridgeshire
and come into Suffolk. On the Suffolk side stands the “Red Lodge” inn, a
solitary old house on the heaths that again resume, and continue until
the chalk is changed for a gravelly soil at the summit of the rise
called Chalk Hill. It is a lonelier road now than ever it had been in
all the centuries between the Middle Ages and the dawn of the railway
era. Railways at one blow took not only the passenger traffic, but the
carriage of goods and minerals; and the cattle and sheep once driven in
hundreds of thousands along the highways and byways began to be
despatched in cattle-trucks.
We cannot fully realise this olden state of the roads, but we can make
an effort towards it: can project ourselves into the seventeenth
century, and see and hear the droves of turkeys, five hundred in each,
come gobbling and bubbling, in the manner peculiar to turkeys, all the
way from the farmyards to the London markets. Can also watch in
imagination the waddling march of the thousands of geese bred on these
commons, and sent hissing and snapping down this long course of a
hundred miles to celebrate the September feast of St. Michael on many a
metropolitan dinner-table. Alas, poor Michaelmas geese! Alas, too, for
the Christmas geese! but _they_ went more gloriously to martyrdom, being
carried all the way instead of driven. The reason for this was that the
muddy roads of late autumn and early winter were too soft and sticky for
their feet, and so they rode to town in the “goose-cart,” a
four-storeyed conveyance as Defoe tells us, “with two horses abreast,
like a coach, so quartering the road for the ease of the gentry that
thus ride.”
A neglected item of information, from a local newspaper of the time,
helps the imagination in later, but still forgotten, things. Thus we
read of a village on the Ipswich route from London to Norwich: “In the
last droving season, 1845, the landlord of the ‘Bird in Hand,’ Tasburgh,
housed 9,300 beasts. He purchased for their consumption and for horses,
etc., fifty tons of hay; but in the following year, owing to the opening
of the Norfolk Railway, only twelve beasts were taken in, and only 8½
cwt. of hay was wanted.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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