Speke’s expedition travelled on with little trouble as far as Usagara. The complete harmony which existed at all times between Speke and Grant contributed much to the smoothness of the arrangements. At Usagara, however, they had trouble with one of their caravan leaders (Baraka). The Hottentots became increasingly sick and helpless, and Captain Grant was seriously ill with fever. However, they pushed on to that East Coast range of terraced mountains which is nowadays dotted with not a few mission and government stations. There is charming and fantastic scenery in these mountains, which rise in parts to an altitude of seven thousand feet. From Usagara were sent back some of the Hottentots, a collection of natural history specimens, and the camera. Speke had greatly desired to illustrate the scenery of equatorial Africa by means of photography,--a most serious undertaking in the sixties. Grant worked the apparatus, but was rendered so ill by the heat of the dark tent that Speke decided to abandon photography and to rely instead on his companion’s drawings. Ugogo, which is a rolling plateau to the west of the Usagara range, gave the travellers some trouble. Here, as elsewhere, there was famine, owing to the scarcity of water and the incessant raids on the part of the Masai from the north or the Wahehe from the south. The Wagogo themselves are a truculent people, who have given serious annoyance to caravans during the last hundred years. They speak a Bantu language, but have very much more the physical aspect of the Nilotic tribes to the north, being, like them, very much addicted to nudity.[58] On the plains of Ugogo Grant killed the largest and handsomest of all the gazelles, which had henceforth borne his name.[59] In Ugogo Speke also records the existence of that strange archaic type of dog, the _Otocyon_, a specimen of which he killed. On the western frontier of Ugogo the expedition was menaced with serious trouble. The rapacious native chief made increasing demands on them for taxes. A number of their porters deserted, and their Wanyamwezi carriers who had agreed to replace the missing men were scared away by the threats of the Wagogo. In addition, the rainy season had come on, and was unusually heavy, flooding the country in all directions. The expedition would have come to grief but for the game shot by its leaders, which kept the men from starvation. It was only got out of its difficulties at last by the friendly help of the Arabs of Unyamwezi, who sent seventy porters to the relief of the explorers. When Speke reached the borders of Unyamwezi and took stock of his position, he found that six of his Hottentots were dead or had been sent back to the coast in charge of several free porters, that twenty-five of the Sultan of Zanzibar’s slaves and ninety-eight of the original Wanyamwezi porters had deserted, all the mules and donkeys were dead, and half of his property had been stolen.