The North-Americans of yesterday : $b a comparative study of North-American Indian life, customs, and products, on the theory of the ethnic unity of the raceDellenbaugh, Frederick Samuel
History
The North-Americans of yesterday : $b a comparative study of North-American Indian life, customs, and products, on the theory of the ethnic unity of the race
Dellenbaugh, Frederick Samuel
Indians of Mexico; Indians of North America
Here we discover the same desire for distinction of individuals by
dress that exists in all races, and the same desire to dress richly
on the part of those possessing wealth or station, for it must be
understood that wealth and station have their degrees amongst the
rudest Amerinds as well as amongst the highest and amongst the
Europeans. The dress in the summer always differs considerably from
that of winter. In many tribes little is worn by the men in summer but
the breech-cloth, and sometimes not even that. I recall one morning
when I was living in the Moki village of Tewa, in Arizona, one of
the dignitaries came to call upon me, as was a common custom, and he
had wrapped about him a native blanket. When he temporarily let this
covering drop away from his person, I noticed that there was not even
a breech-cloth beneath. The small children of both sexes played about
in a state of nature, though some wore a shirt, and the women appeared
to have on only the one garment, made of two small black blankets sewed
together on their side edges and caught over the right shoulder and
under the left. The Moki women wear moccasins only in the ceremonials,
or on some state occasion, or when travelling. They rarely travel.
Catlin gave a great deal of attention to the costumes of the Amerinds
he travelled amongst and painted, and a reference to his works opens
up a world of detail that cannot be presented here. Some of his most
interesting work was amongst the Mandans, of Dakota stock, in the year
1832.[123] I will quote from him some general remarks on the Mandan
costume. “The Mandans, in many instances, dress very neatly, and some
of them splendidly. As they are in their native state, their dresses
are all of their own manufacture, and, of course, altogether made
of skins of different animals belonging to those regions. There is,
certainly, a reigning and striking similarity of costume amongst most
of the North-western tribes, and I cannot say that the dress of the
Mandans is decidedly distinct from that of the Crows or the Blackfeet,
the Assiniboins, or the Sioux[124]; yet there are modes of stitching
or embroidering in every tribe which may at once enable the traveller
who is familiar with their modes to detect or distinguish the dress
of any tribe. These differences consist generally in the fashions of
constructing the head-dress, or of garnishing their dresses with the
porcupine quills, which they use in great profusion.... The tunic,
or shirt, of the Mandan men is very similar in shape to that of the
Blackfeet—made of two skins of deer, or mountain-sheep, strung with
scalp-locks, beads, and ermine. The leggings, like those of the other
tribes of which I have spoken, are made of deerskins and shaped to fit
the leg, embroidered with porcupine quills, and fringed with scalps
from their enemies’ heads. Their moccasins are made of buckskin, and
neatly ornamented with porcupine quills. Over their shoulders (or, in
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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