The North Devon CoastHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The North Devon Coast
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
Devon (England) -- Description and travel
Those transatlantic cousins in summer pervade Clovelly. Everywhere
you hear it to be “purrfectly lovely,” or “real ullegant,” or may
catch some one “allowing” it to be “vurry pretty,” or even a “cunning
little place.” Sometimes they rhapsodise; and when they write down
their names in the “New Inn” visitors’ book, they write much else in
the appreciative sort. I wish my own countrymen were in general as
appreciative of the good things in scenery and antiquities as the
generality of our American visitors--and yet, on second thoughts,
I don’t; because we who do love them would be lost in the sudden
overwhelming swirl of humanity, and the things delightful would be
finally spoiled, beyond recall.
[Illustration: SIGN OF THE “NEW INN,” CLOVELLY.]
To examine an accumulated pile of those books is to note that at
least three-quarters of those who stay here are Americans. “If it
were not for them,” they say at the inn in particular, and in the
village in general, “we could not go on.” A traveller from the United
States, with his womenkind, is generally in a hurry, but if he visits
Clovelly at all, he is, at any rate, almost certain to stay overnight.
Often he comes with a motor-car, left at the stables far above.
English holiday-makers, on the other hand, are most largely made up
of steamboat excursionists, come for an hour or two. You may see
them landing in row-boats, and coming straggling up-along, gazing in
wonderment this way and that, and then going off again, quite content
with this hurried impression. Not theirs the wish to know what Clovelly
is like in early morning, or to witness daylight fade away in that
unique street, and the lights of the cottages come out, above and
below. I need not add that they certainly do not know Clovelly with a
full knowledge.
Of those who record their stay in the visitors’ book at the “New Inn,”
a large proportion add remarks, and some even indite verse. It is not
great verse, as witness the following:
CLOVELLY
“A heaven on earth,
A haven for the weary,
Where Nature’s glory hath no dearth,
Where life may not be dreary.”
A caustic comment upon this by a later traveller shows that not even
Clovelly may please all tastes. “My life”--so carps the abandoned
wretch--“would be very dreary if I staid here long.”
The soldier and sailor who occupy the projecting signpost of the “New
Inn,” and whose arms, revolving in the breeze like windmills, are
finished off like cricket-bats, have been there just a hundred years,
as you may perhaps see from their costumes. They are now held together
chiefly by dint of many successive coats of paint.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account