The North Devon CoastHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The North Devon Coast
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
Devon (England) -- Description and travel
“Think not that youth will keep you free,
For Death at twenty-seven months called off me.”
To visit the cliff-top of Gallantry Bower, in Clovelly Park, a fee is
demanded, as also to see Mouth Mill; the receipts, in common with those
paid for entrance to the Hobby Drive, being devoted, it is announced,
“to local charities.” Now Clovelly is a small place, and prosperous,
the receipts large, and the demands for charity necessarily small:
it seems to an unprejudiced observer that the statement needs to be
amplified. Moreover, it is not altogether fair that visitors should
be taxed by the owners of Clovelly Court, who receive an excellent
rent-roll from Clovelly village, and should thus relieve themselves of
a natural obligation to return in charity a percentage of the tribute
they are paid.
[Illustration: CLOVELLY, FROM THE SEA.]
But now for Mouth Mill. Disregarding all notices with such flapdoodle
as “Private,” and “Trespassers will be prosecuted,” generally known
among lawyers as “wooden liars,” you turn from Clovelly churchyard into
a farmyard, then left and then right, along some park-like paths; soon
finding yourself on a rough upland in company with a rude signpost
pointing a wizened finger “To Hartland.” On the right is a gate marked
“Private,” leading into a woodland drive. Taking no notice of that
impudent attempt to warn the inoffensive stranger off a remarkably
pretty coast scene, you descend through the woods by a well-defined
road, and come at last to Mouth Mill; one of the typical gullies of
this coast, with a stream losing itself on a beach composed of giant
pebbles and strange, contorted rocks. A lonely cottage, the usual
limekiln, and a landing-place, obviously where the Clovelly Court coals
are landed, are the items completing the scene. A pyramidal rock of
almost coal-black hue discloses itself as you scramble down to the sea.
This is Black Church Rock: a huge mass with a hole in the middle of it,
and all its strata on end.
[Illustration: CLOVELLY CHURCH.]
The unimpeded cliff-path scrambler can find a way from this beach up
Windbury Head. Arrived there, in absolute solitude, down dives the path
again, and up to the gigantic mass of Exmansworthy Cliff. Here the
going is extremely difficult, but the scenery is sufficient reward,
even for these exertions. Fatacott Cliff, the loftiest of all these
ramparted outlooks, midway between Clovelly and Hartland, is the scene
of many a shipwreck. Few winters pass without some unfortunate vessel
ending here.
[Illustration: BLACK CHURCH ROCK.]
A long succession of cliffs leads at last to Eldern Point and thence
into the wild inlet of Shipload Bay, whose shore, like most of these
nooks, is paved with dark ribs of rock. Finally, West Titchberry
Cliffs and Barley Bay, lead to Hartland Point itself; noblest in
outline of all; with its coastguard station on the windy ridge, and the
lighthouse, built so recently as 1874, on a rocky platform, two-thirds
of the way down to the sea.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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