The North Devon CoastHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The North Devon Coast
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
Devon (England) -- Description and travel
Stucley, however, appears to have been allowed the most extraordinary
licence. Instead of colonising Florida and entering the family circle
of princes, he roved the seas for two years, occupying his formidable
fleet in piracy. Not even in the age of Elizabeth, when the Armada
incident was so fresh, could the nation afford to allow piratical
attacks upon foreigners to be conducted on this scale. The English
Ambassador to the Court of Madrid “hung his head for shame” when the
doings of Stucley were brought to his notice, and that irresponsible
person was disavowed. A squadron was even fitted out to arrest him, and
did so at Cork in 1565; but he was merely, in effect, told not to do it
again, and released. Afterwards he was employed by the Government in
Ireland; but, with the passion for intrigue and an absolute inability
to act in a straightforward manner that possessed him, he became a
Roman Catholic, and, resorting to Spain, endeavoured to bring about a
Spanish invasion of Ireland. In anticipation of the success of this
project, the King of Spain created him Duke of Ireland, but the plan
failed. At length, busy in all quarters in seeking trouble, he aided
the Portuguese in Morocco, and was slain in the fighting there.
The exploits of this restless person were made much of in a book of his
adventures published not long after his death, and in it he appears
something of a hero; but a detailed and intimate account of his career
shows him to have been as mean and sordid a scoundrel in domestic
affairs as he was bold and grasping in adventure.
A spot up the valley, whence a beautiful near view of Hartland Abbey is
obtained, is known as Bow Bridge, and from it a road climbs steeply,
bringing up at the village of Stoke, dwarfed by the great body and tall
massive tower of its church, generally called Hartland church, although
that town is situated out of sight, a mile further inland. The church
is dedicated to Saint Nectan, who was a very popular saint in the West,
as those travelling into Cornwall will find, to this day. A gigantic
effigy of Nectan still remains on the eastern wall of the tower, and
the high-church bias of the neighbourhood may be readily assumed from
the restored churchyard cross, with its Calvary, its sculptured scenes
from the life of Nectan and of Gytha, and its inscription, “Nos salva
rex cruce xte tua.”
This great church of St. Nectan has often been styled “the Cathedral
of North Devon.” Rebuilt in the fourteenth century, it is, of course,
wholly in the Perpendicular style, and equally of course, presents a
thoroughly well-balanced and symmetrical mass, without any of those
additions from time to time, or those changes of plan, that render
churches built by degrees throughout the centuries so picturesque. St.
Nectan’s exhibits regularity and preciseness to the last degree. The
tall tower, over a hundred and forty feet high, was doubtless built
especially as a landmark for sailors.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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