The North Devon CoastHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The North Devon Coast
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
Devon (England) -- Description and travel
To those times of unparalleled prosperity, which continued until well
into the third quarter of the eighteenth century, belong many of those
existing architectural remains of old Barnstaple that are becoming
increasingly difficult to find in the rebuildings and other changes of
our own times. Out of the abundance of his riches old Penrose in 1627
founded the almshouses that still remain very much as he left them;
and in that era the quays and Castle Street were occupied, not only
with the warehouses, but the residences also, of the merchants who
traded with distant countries or levied private war upon the foreigner,
with equal readiness. A complete change has, indeed, come upon that
quarter, for the Barnstaple Town railway station, a brewery, and some
entirely modern houses stand upon the spot where the merchants did not
disdain to live over their counting-houses, looking upon the river,
where the weather-beaten vessels, at last come home from alien seas,
were warped to shore. Of that old time there is a very fine old doorway
left in Castle Street; and in Cross Street, near by, over a tailor’s
shop, there is the first-floor front room of a late sixteenth-century
house with a most elaborate Renaissance plaster ceiling and frieze,
probably executed for some enriched merchant, fully conscious of what
was due, in the way of display, to his wealth. The design is curious,
the workmanship rough, the feeling of it imbued with a religious cast;
characteristics, all of them, common to much work of the kind executed
at that period in North Somerset and North Devon, from Minehead to
Bideford. The Renaissance had come very slowly down this way, on its
long journey from Italy, and had lost on the way the fine touch of its
native land. It had lost also much of the somewhat pagan character it
exhibited there, and became greatly concerned in the more prominent
narratives of the Old Testament. Vague legends tell of wandering
Italian craftsmen executing the plaster ceilings and elaborate
chimney-piece designs often found in old houses of the better class in
these districts, but they were probably Englishmen, who had picked up
something of the trick of the new style, without very much of foreign
dexterity, but had imported their own thought into the work. At any
rate the numerous examples met with have so striking a general likeness
of treatment that the conclusion of their being the work of a distinct
school becomes inevitable.
[Illustration: AN OLD DOOR, BARNSTAPLE.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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