The Norwich Road: An East Anglian HighwayHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Norwich Road: An East Anglian Highway
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; Norwich Road
Nor did Constable only _paint_ his native vale; he has described it in
almost as masterly a way. To him it was "the most cultivated part of
Suffolk, a spot which overlooks the fertile valley of the Stour, which
river separates that county on the south from Essex. The beauty of the
surrounding scenery, its gentle declivities, its luxuriant meadow flats
sprinkled with flocks and herds, its well-cultivated uplands, its woods
and rivers, with numerous scattered villages and churches, farms and
picturesque cottages, all impart to this particular spot an amenity
and excellence hardly anywhere else to be found. He tells an amusing
story of travelling home by coach down this very hill. He shared the
vehicle with two strangers. "In passing the Vale of Dedham, one of
them remarked, on my saying it was very beautiful, 'Yes, sir, this is
Constable's Country.' I then told him who I was lest he should spoil
it."
From this hill-top to the left of the road, and in what are now the
woodlands of Langham Hall, Constable painted his best-known Vale
of Dedham. In one respect the scene has changed. The willows still
fringing the Stour, formerly "cobbed" or pollarded, are now allowed
to grow as they will, and the river is not so visible as it was once.
Otherwise the Constable Country is little altered. Even on this hill,
close by Langham church, Church Farm, the original of his "Glebe Farm,"
remains as it was, thatched and gabled, close by the church tower. Only
the foliage has changed, and the little guttering stream been drained
away.
[Illustration: THE VALE OF DEDHAM. _After Constable._]
[Illustration: GUN HILL.]
This steep road, shelving so abruptly to the Stour, is Dedham Hill,
more often locally known as Dedham Gun Hill, from the "Gun" inn at the
summit, now unhappily rebuilt, but until recently a most picturesque
old inn, with the painted sign of a cannon hanging over the road. The
sign has gone, and a pretentious house, which proclaims "Accommodation
for Lady Cyclists," arisen in its stead. At the foot of the hill the
road, turning abruptly to the left, begins a lengthy crossing of the
Stour and its marshes by a bridge over the channel and a long series of
flood-water arches across the oozy valley. The old toll-house, taking
tolls no longer, still stands, a quaint building on the Essex side, and
bears a cast-iron tablet with the inscription,--
THE DUMB ANIMALS' HUMBLE PETITION.
Rest, drivers, rest, on this steep hill,
Dumb beasts pray use with all good will;
Goad not, scourge not, with thongèd whips,
Let not one curse escape your lips,
God sees and hears.
T. T. H., POSUIT.
[Illustration: OLD TOLL-HOUSE, STRATFORD BRIDGE.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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