The Norwich Road: An East Anglian HighwayHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Norwich Road: An East Anglian Highway
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; Norwich Road
It is the same plain, square building, constructed of a pallid kind of
brick suggesting underdone pastry, and is still, although the coaches
have disappeared and railways have supplanted them, "known far and
wide by the appellation of the 'Great White Horse.'" Still, over the
pillared entrance trots the effigy of the Great White Horse himself,
perhaps the aboriginal ancestor of that famous breed of equines, the
"Suffolk Punches," a very muscular race, more famous for their bulk
and strength than for elegance, like those sturdy Flanders mares to
which Henry the Eighth inelegantly likened his bride, Anne of Cleves.
Dickens, using the usual licence of the novelist, describes this effigy
as "a stone statue of some rampacious animal, with flowing mane and
tail, distantly resembling an insane cart-horse, elevated above the
principal door." Quite apart from the fact that the word "rampacious"
is unknown to the English language, and is probably meant for
"rampageous," the horse is really represented in the act of beginning a
gentle trot, and looks as mild as the mildest milk that ever dewed the
whiskers of a new-born kitten. His off fore-leg, broken at some period,
has been restored of a size that does not match with the other three.
Never, in the whole of his existence, has the Great White Horse gone
on the rampage, and, like all the truly great, his manners have always
been distinguished by their unobtrusiveness.
"The 'Great White Horse,'" writes Dickens, "is famous in the
neighbourhood, in the same degree as a prize ox, or county
paper-chronicled turnip, or unwieldy pig--for its enormous size. Never
were such labyrinths of uncarpeted passages, such clusters of mouldy,
ill-lighted rooms, such huge numbers of small dens for eating or
sleeping in, beneath any one roof, as are collected together between
the four walls of the 'Great White Horse' at Ipswich." Further, he
describes it as "an overgrown tavern," at whose door, when Mr Pickwick
descended from the coach, stood a waiter whose description quite
takes one's desire for dinner away. He was "a corpulent man with a
fortnight's napkin under his arm and coeval stockings on his legs."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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