The Norwich Road: An East Anglian HighwayHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Norwich Road: An East Anglian Highway
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; Norwich Road
And there, on a byroad, in an embrace of trees, it is found, a little
forgotten town, the greater proportion of whose inhabitants appear
to walk with two sticks. It is ranged round a green or market-place,
with a great Perpendicular church, gorgeously frescoed within, and
with a very good recent "Ascension" over the chancel arch, painted
and stencilled timber roof, and elaborate stained-glass windows. The
townlet and townsfolk sinking into decay, the church an object of such
care and expense, afford a curious contrast.
An old toll-house and the prison-like buildings of Depwade Union
conspire to make desolate the road onwards. He who presses, hot-foot,
along it, turning neither to the right nor to the left, may readily be
excused a legitimate wonder as to what has become of the great feature
of East Anglia, its spreading commons; for, strange to say, despite
the fame they have long since attained, no vestige of them is glimpsed
from the road itself. One has usually to turn aside to some of the
villages lying near, but wholly hidden from the highway, to find the
yet unenclosed common lands, the pasturage of geese, ducks and turkeys;
but a striking exception to this now general rule is the huge common
of Wacton lying off to the left of the road at the hundredth mile from
London, where a cottage and a wayside inn, the "Duke's Head," alone
represent Wacton village, a mile distant. Wacton Common, reputed to be
the highest point in Norfolk, although of no less extent than three
hundred and fifty acres, might perhaps be passed without being seen,
for the reason that, although still wild and unenclosed, it is screened
from the high road by a hedge and entered through an ordinary field
gate. The inn and the cottage, obviously built on land fraudulently
taken from the common in the long ago, serve with their gardens to hide
that glorious expanse of grass and heather. Here roam those chartered
vagabonds, the plump geese, that pick up a living on the grassy commons
and wander, like free-booting bands of feathered moss-troopers upon the
heaths, closing their careers with royal feasting in the August and
September stubble, and a Michaelmas martyrdom.
[Illustration: A DISPUTED PASTURAGE.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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