The Norwich Road: An East Anglian HighwayHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Norwich Road: An East Anglian Highway
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; Norwich Road
HERE, on this famous Heath of Mousehold where the gorse and heather
and the less common broom yet flourish, despite the electric tramways
that bring up the crowds and the picnic parties, Nature, rugged and
unconquerable, looks down upon the city, revealed as a whole. Even
though the chimneys of great factories may intrude and smirch the sky
when winds permit the smoke-wreaths to trail across the view, it is a
view quite unspoilable. The cathedral, as is only proper, is the grand
dominating feature, with its central tower and graceful crocketed spire
rising to a height of 320 feet. Second to it, on its left hand, the
huge bulk of the castle keep rears up; a time-ball on its battlements
to give the time o' day to the busy citizens; those battlements where
from a gibbet they hanged Robert Kett in 1549, when his rebellion was
crushed and his army of 20,000 peasants who had encamped on Mousehold
defeated. In similar fashion his brother William was hanged from
Wymondham steeple. Between castle and cathedral the great tower of
St Peter Mancroft looms up, and on the other side of the cathedral
tower the twin spires of the Roman Catholic place of worship crown the
sky-line. To the extreme right of the accompanying illustration is
St Giles's, and on the extreme left, in company with the pinnacled
tower of a modern church, the dark tower of St John-at-Sepulchre,
Bracondale, which for shortness and simplicity the citizens call "Ber
Street Church." For the rest, it is a mingling of town and country, of
houses and gardens and churches in great number, that one sees down
there; old Norwich, in short, exclusive of the modern suburbs that are
flung everywhere around and cause the Norwich of to-day to outnumber
the Norwich of coaching times by 80,000 inhabitants. It must be
evident from those figures that the picturesque old Norwich numbering
a population of only 30,000 has been in great degree improved away and
borne under by that human deluge. It is delightful now, but what it
was at the beginning of the nineteenth century, when Crome and De Wint
and others sketched and painted its quaint bits, the picture-galleries
of the Castle Museum can tell. Nay, even down to the mid-nineteenth
century it was still very different, as a collection of early
photographs in the castle proves. Then, before St Peter Mancroft was
restored, before the old Fish Market was cleared away, Norwich had many
more quaint nooks than now to show the stranger; even as, centuries
before, it was yet more quaint and even more remarkable for its many
churches than at the present time.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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