The Norwich Road: An East Anglian HighwayHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Norwich Road: An East Anglian Highway
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; Norwich Road
How Kelvedon can ever have escaped being called "Long" Kelvedon is
a mystery, for it straggles on and on and must be nearly a mile in
length; a street of handsome old residences, of cottages and humble
shops of all ages, and old broken-backed taverns where the Essex
labourer gathers night by night and discusses the prospect of the
carraway crop and the likelihood of the entire agricultural interest
presently, going _en masse_ to the "work'us." After which, with
the courage of despair, and to drown his troubles, he will call for
"another pot o' thrup'ny, missus," and, when closing time comes,
slouch home through the mud and mist until the following evening, when
the same programme is repeated. It is the agricultural labourer who
supports the little wayside "publics" whose existence in such numbers
puzzles the mid-day stranger, who, seeing them empty and apparently
lifeless, wonders how they can possibly live. Business practically only
begins when work in the fields is done, and the rent is not so high but
that a few pots of beer a night represent a sufficient profit.
It must not be supposed that Kelvedon has not its exquisite
architectural relics of a bygone time, or that its inns are all of the
rural beer-house type. Not at all. Chief among the inns of Kelvedon
is the "Angel," which indeed is a house not only of considerable size
and outstanding character, but of historic interest, as having been
the favourite resting-place of William the Third on his journeys along
this road. Its projecting porch is the first thing the traveller sees
on entering the town from the direction of London, where the road
swerves violently to the left, and again as violently to the right,
forming a very awkward corner. "Angel Corner," said Alexander, of the
"Retaliator" coach, "is the very devil of a corner." This remark was
drawn from him on the occasion of his nearly driving into the porch,
when trying conclusions with a rival charioteer.
Almost opposite the still-existing "Angel" stood the equally extensive
"Red Lion," long since retired from business and remodelled as a row
of cottages. The histories of both houses, and of many another fine
old inn, which might once have been written from the recollections of
those who knew the old days of the road, are now in great part lost,
and the world so much the poorer. Had scribblers then abounded, and the
"personal" note of the modern journalist been sounded in those days,
we should have known how King William came to and set out from his
inn; how he looked, what he ate and drank, how many long clay pipes
he smoked, and what comparisons he drew in conversation with Bentinck
between the flat lands on the way from Kelvedon to Harwich and the
still flatter lands of his native Holland. And besides such records of
the great, we should then have been better furnished with the early
history of coaching, which, if not indeed a sealed book, is at least a
very short and fragmentary one.
[Illustration: THE "ANGEL," KELVEDON.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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