The Norwich Road: An East Anglian HighwayHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Norwich Road: An East Anglian Highway
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; Norwich Road
Turning off to the right, the curious in things pre-historic may
lose themselves in the solitudes of the real Lexden Heath, where the
Devil, the Trinobantes, the Romans, or Fairfax, the Parliamentary
General--according to varying legends--threw up the entrenchments,
and delved the ditches, found there in plenty. The Devil, we say
advisedly, for "Gryme," or "Grim," whose name is attached to the dyke
across the heath, was none other, in the minds of the Saxons. "Lexden
Straight Road" follows for an unconscionable distance a line of Roman
entrenchments, and is straight and dull beyond belief. Followed long
enough, it leads to "Bottle End," which may originally have been
"Battle End," the scene of some traditional legend of Boadicea's
defeat at the hands of the Romans. Or, again, it perhaps marks some
forgotten connection with St Botolph, whose ruined Abbey stands outside
Colchester's walls, and whose honoured name is pronounced "Bottle" by
Colcestrians. Anything is possible in a district where Beacon End, the
site of the old beacon already mentioned, has become Bacon End.
[Illustration: LEXDEN.]
Lexden village now claims attention. It is a place in which one school
of antiquaries finds the original Roman station of Camulodunum,
established on the site of the royal city of Cunobelin, King of the
Trinobantes; a finding strenuously contested by another following.
Certainly, among the tall elms and rolling surface of Lexden Park there
are remains in plenty of huge defensive earthworks, telling in no
uncertain manner that this must have been a place of enormous strength,
by whomsoever held. The surroundings are weird and impressive to a
degree.
The village skirting the road is one of the prettiest on the way. Going
towards Colchester, the road drops down the hill, where old cottages
stand high above the pathway, with steep little gardens in front, kept
from sliding down into the road itself by lichened retaining-walls
sprouting with house-leek and draped with climbing plants. Lower
still, hard by the church whose carpenter-Gothic atrocities are hung
about with ivy and creepers until they are transfigured into a dream
of beauty, the grouping of the 'Sun' Inn and neighbouring houses
is exquisite. Beyond this point begins the suburban approach to
Colchester, a town it behoves the stranger to approach with a proper
respect, for here was the first Roman colony in Britain. The history
of Colchester, indeed, begins so far back as A.D. 44, and there was
already a pre-historic native city in existence before then; the royal
city of that ancient British king, Cunobelin, the monarch famous in the
pages of Shakespeare as "Cymbeline."
XXVI
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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