The Norwich Road: An East Anglian HighwayHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Norwich Road: An East Anglian Highway
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; Norwich Road
How it happened that the original road and the Decuman Gate in
Colchester's west wall fell into disuse, none can tell. It was so many
ages ago that not even a pathway leads along the ancient way, now
quite obliterated by houses. But if the road be gone, the Gate itself
remains, though in ruins. Let us, before entering Colchester, attempt
to find it. To do so, it will be necessary to retrace our steps a
little distance along Crouch Street, and, so doing, to take a turning
to the right-hand, down Balkerne Lane. The first sign of ancient Rome
is seen where the Church of St Mary-at-the-Wall stands towering above
a flight of steps leading up into the street beyond. There stands
revealed a portion of the wall. The breach in it, through which the
steps lead, was once a postern gate. Overhung with trees, the freshness
of whose spring foliage with every recurrent April forms a romantic
contrast with the almost immeasurably old of the riven wall, this is a
place for thought. From the summit of that old defence, where once the
legionaries lined the battlements in time of peril, or leaned gossiping
in peaceful days, one looks down over roof-tops into the valley where
the railway runs, and wishes for a momentary lifting of the veil and
a glimpse of what the spot will be like in another eighteen hundred
years. Close by, a hoary mass of brick and tile and weather-worn
courses of septaria are the remains of the Roman Gate. Three arches can
be traced; the middle arch of eleven feet span, the side ones, for foot
passengers, less than half that width. Candour, however, compels the
admission that of architectural character they have not the slightest
trace. Over against this relic stands an inn known as the "Hole in the
Wall," although that is not its actual sign; and through that hole the
most prominent object in all Colchester looms red and horrid. "Jumbo"
brutally dominates everything, and blasts the approach to Colchester
far away on every road but that from London, for which small mercy
thanks be given. Who, you ask, is Jumbo? He is not Roman, but he is
very big, very ugly, and very prominent; and, unluckily, cannot fail
to be seen. After him, even the Roman remains of Colchester pale their
ineffectual efforts at pre-eminence. It is conceivable, although not
very likely, that a stranger passing through Colchester might not
notice its Roman antiquities, but Jumbo will not be denied. There he
is, crowning the highest point in the town, shameless in brick of
the most striking red and in attempts at decoration which, however
well meant, only serve to render his hulking body more objectionable,
with an effect as though a navvy were to adorn his rugged face with
pearl-powder.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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