The Norwich Road: An East Anglian HighwayHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Norwich Road: An East Anglian Highway
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; Norwich Road
its site sold to the Corporation, to be thrown into the roadway.
That Colchester stands on a considerably elevated site is evident to
all who, having entered from the London road, turn out of Head Street
into the High Street, and in doing so glimpse the long descent of
North Hill at the corner. A further revelation is that of East Hill,
which, in continuation of High Street, the traveller must long and
steeply descend towards the Colne, on his way to Ipswich and Norwich.
It was in High Street that Colchester's principal coaching inns were
situated, and there yet remains--now the most picturesque feature of
that thoroughfare--the "Red Lion," with old timber brackets supporting
a projecting upper storey and a four-centred Tudor oak entrance
curiously carved; its original and restored portions so thickly smeared
with paint and varnish that all might be old, so far as the antiquary
can tell, or all might be in the nature of Wardour Street antiques.
The "Red Lion" figured as a rendezvous in the surrender of the town to
Fairfax, after the siege of 1648. In its yard the vanquished laid down
their swords.
Another inn was the "White Hart," where Bank Passage leaves the High
Street. The building, a highly respectable plaster-faced one, smug
and Georgian, still stands, but it is an inn no longer. Another old
inn, the "Three Cups," has been rebuilt. Older than any, but coyly
hiding its antiquarian virtues of chamfered oaken beams and quaint
galleries from the crowd, is the "Angel," in West Stockwell Street,
whose origin as a pilgrim's inn is vouched for. Weary suppliants to,
or returning from, the shrine of Our Lady of Walsingham, far away
on the road through and past Norwich, housed here and misbehaved
themselves in their mediæval way. It would be the gravest of mistakes
to assume old pilgrims decorous. Modern Bank Holiday folks would,
compared with them, seem to be of a severe monkish austerity. The
shrine at Walsingham, second only in repute to that of the Blessed
Thomas at Canterbury, drew crowds of every class, from king to beggar.
The great Benedictine Abbey of St John at Colchester sheltered some
in its guest-houses, while the late-comers inned at such hostelries
as the "Angel," or, if the weather were propitious, lay in the woods.
Ill fared the unsuspecting citizen who met any of these sinners on
the way to be plenarily indulged and lightened of their load of sin.
They would murder him for twopence or cudgel him out of high spirits
and for the fun of the thing; arguing, doubtless, that as they were
presently to turn over a new leaf, it mattered little how black the old
one was. Drunkenness and crime, immorality, obscenity and license of
the grossest kind were in fact accompaniments of pilgrimage, and the
sin-worn wanderers who prayed devoutly at the niche, now empty of its
statue, in the east end of All Saints' Church in the High Street, on
their journey to and from Walsingham, would resume their foul jests and
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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