The Nursery-Book: A Complete Guide to the Multiplication and Pollination of PlantsBailey, L. H. (Liberty Hyde)
Science
The Nursery-Book: A Complete Guide to the Multiplication and Pollination of Plants
Bailey, L. H. (Liberty Hyde)
Plant propagation
The minor details of shield-budding differ with nearly every operator.
In commercial practice, it is performed in the north from early July
until the middle of September. In the southern states it usually begins
in June. As a rule, apples and pears are budded before peaches. This
is due to the fact that peach-stocks are nearly always budded the same
season the pits are planted, and the operation must be delayed until
the stocks are large enough to be worked. Most other fruit-stocks,
especially apples and pears, are not budded until two years after the
seeds are sown. The plants grow for the first season in a seed-bed.
The next spring they are transplanted into nursery rows, and budded
when they become large enough, which is usually the same year they are
transplanted. The nurseryman reckons the age of his stock from the time
of transplanting, and the age of the marketable tree from the time when
the buds or grafts begin to grow. The young stocks are "dressed" or
trimmed before being set into the nursery. This operation consists in
cutting off a fourth or third of the top and the tap root. This causes
the roots to spread and induces a vigorous growth of top because it
reduces the numbers of shoots; and such stocks are more expeditiously
handled than long and untrimmed ones.
Stocks should be at least three-eighths inch in diameter to be budded
with ease. Just before the buds are set, the leaves are removed
from the base of the stock so that they will not interfere with the
operation. They are usually rubbed off with the hand for a space of
five or six inches above the ground. They should not be removed more
than two or three days in advance of budding, else the growth of the
parts will be checked and the bark will set; any branches, too, as
in the quince, which might impede the work of the budder, are to be
cut off at the same time. The bud is inserted an inch or two above
the surface of the ground or as low down as the budder can work. The
advantage of setting the bud low is to bring the resulting crook or
union where it will not be seen. It is a common and good practice,
also, to place the bud upon the north side of the stock to shield it
from the sun.
[Illustration: Fig. 62. A stick of buds.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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