The Nursery-Book: A Complete Guide to the Multiplication and Pollination of PlantsBailey, L. H. (Liberty Hyde)
Science
The Nursery-Book: A Complete Guide to the Multiplication and Pollination of Plants
Bailey, L. H. (Liberty Hyde)
Plant propagation
The buds are taken from strong and well-hardened shoots of the season's
growth and of the desired variety. Usually the whole of the present
growth is cut, the leaves are removed, but a part of the petiole or
stalk of each leaf is left (as in Figs. 61 and 62) to serve as a handle
to the bud. This trimmed shoot is then called a "stick." A stick may
bear two dozen good buds when the growth has been strong, but only
ten or twelve buds are commonly secured. The upper buds, which are
commonly not fully grown and which are borne on soft wood, are usually
discarded. The buds are cut with a thin-bladed sharp knife. Various
styles of budding knives are in use, and the budder usually has decided
preferences for some particular pattern. The essentials of a good
budding-knife are these: the very best steel, a thin blade which has a
curved cutting end (as shown in Figs. 63 and 66), and lightness. The
curved end of the blade is used for making the incisions in the stock.
The handle of the budding-knife usually runs into a thin bone scalpel
at the end, and this portion is designed for the lifting or loosening
of the bark on the stock. Some budders, however, raise the bark with
the blade. A good form of blade, but one seldom made, has a rounded
end, the upper side of the curve being ground simply to a thin edge.
This blade may be used both for cutting the bark and loosening it,
thus overcoming the necessity of reversing the knife every time a bud
is set. If this form of blade were commonly known it would undoubtedly
soon come into favor. The blade of a common budding-knife can be ground
to this shape.
The bud is usually cut about an inch long. Most budders cut from below
upwards, but some prefer to make a downward incision. It does not
matter just how the bud is cut, if the surfaces are smooth and even
and the bud is not too thick. On a stick a fourth or three-eighths
inch through, the cut, at its deepest point just under the bud, is
about one-fourth the diameter of the twig. A bit of wood is therefore
removed with the bud, as shown in Fig. 61. There is some discussion
as to whether this wood should be left upon the bud, but no definite
experiments have been made to show that it is injurious to the
resulting tree. Some budders remove the wood with the point of the
knife or by a deft twist as the bud is removed from the stick. But
buds appear to live equally well with wood attached or removed. Some
propagators cut the buds as they go, while others prefer to cut a whole
stick before setting any, letting each bud hang by a bit of bark at the
top and which is cut off squarely when wanted, as shown in Fig. 62.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account