The wound or matrix which is to receive the bud is made by two incisions, one vertical and one transverse (Fig. 63). These are light cuts, extending only through the bark. The vertical slit is usually made first and by the rounded end of the blade. This is an inch or inch and a half long. The transverse cut is made across the top of the vertical cut by one rocking motion of the blade towards the body. The corners of the bark may be lifted a little by an outward motion of the blade so as to allow the bud to be pushed in, but unless the bark slips very freely it will have to be loosened by the end of the blade or by the scalpel on the reverse end of the handle, as previously described. The bud is now inserted in the cleft of the bark. It is pushed down part way by the fingers, as in Fig. 64, but it is usually driven home by pushing down upon the leaf-stalk handle with the back of the knife-blade. The entire bud should pass into the cleft; or if a portion of it should project above it should be cut off. If the bark peels freely, the bud will slip in easily and will follow the cleft, but if it sticks somewhat, more care is necessary to prevent the bud from running out. If the bark is very tight, it may have to be loosened with the knife throughout the length of the cleft; but budding should be performed, if possible, when such pains are not necessary. [Illustration: Fig. 63. Preparing the stock.] The bud must now be tied. The whole matrix should be closed and bound securely, as represented in Fig. 65. The dotted lines parallel with the cleft show the extent to which the bud projects under the bark. The string is usually started below the bud, the end being held by lapping the second course over it, and the upper end being secured by drawing a bow through under the upper course. Care should be taken not to bind the string over the bud itself. The strings are previously cut the required length--about a foot--and the tying is performed very quickly. Any soft cord can be employed. Yarn and carpet warp are sometimes used. The most common material, at least until the last few years, has been bass matting. This is the inner bark of the bass-wood or linden. The bark is stripped in early summer, and the inner portion is macerated or "rotted" in water for four or five weeks. It is then removed, cut into the desired lengths, and stripped into narrow bands--one-fourth to one-half inch wide--when it may be sorted and stored away for future use. If it is stiff and harsh when it comes from the maceration, it should be pounded lightly or rubbed through the hands until it becomes soft and pliable. The best tying material which we now have is undoubtedly raffia. It is an imported article, coming from the eastern tropics (the product of the palm _Raphia Ruffia_), but it is so cheap that it will probably supersede even bass-bark. It is strong and pliable, and is an excellent material for tying up plants in the greenhouse, or small ones out-doors.