be set, and at least all the prominent branches should be grafted if the tree has been well-trained. It is better to have too many stubs and to be obliged to cut out some of them in after years, than to have too few. In thick-topped trees, care must be exercised not to cut out so much the first year that the inner branches will sunburn. All large branches which must be sacrificed ought to be cut out when the grafting is done, as they increase in diameter very rapidly after so much of the top is removed. One horizontal branch lying directly over or under another should not be grafted, for it is the habit of grafts to grow upright rather than horizontally in the direction of the branch. It is well to split all stubs on such branches horizontally, that one cion may not stand directly under another. [Illustration: Fig. 81. Top-grafted old tree.] Top-grafting is performed in spring. The best time is when the leaves are pushing out, as wounds made then heal quickly and cions are most apt to live. But when a large amount of grafting must be done, it is necessary to begin a month or even two before the leaves start. On the other hand, the operation can be extended until a month or more after the leaves are full-grown, but such late cions make a short growth, which is likely to perish the following winter. Professional grafters usually divide their men into three gangs, one to do the cutting of the stubs, one to set the cions, and one to apply the wax. The cions are all whittled before the grafter enters the tree. They are then usually moistened by dipping into a pail of water and are carried in a high side-pocket in the jacket. The handiest mallet is a simple club or billy, a foot and a half long, hung over the wrist by a loose soft cord (Fig 82). This is brought into the palm of the hand by a swinging motion of the forearm. This mallet is always in place, never drops from the tree, and is not in the way. The knife shown in Fig. 79 is commonly used. A downward stroke of the mallet drives the knife into the tree and an upward motion immediately following strikes the knife on the outer end and removes it. Another downward motion drives in the wedge. The sharpened nails and sticks commonly pictured as wedges in cleft-grafting are useless for any serious work. And the common style of grafting-knife sold by seedsmen, comprising a thin, broad blade set in a heavy back piece, is also worthless. The blade is too thin to split the stub. The various combined implements which have been devised to facilitate cleft-grafting are usually impracticable in serious operations. A very good grafting-knife for small stocks or trees in nursery row is shown in Fig. 83. This is the Thomas knife. The larger arm is made entirely of wood. At its upper end is a grooved portion into which the blade closes. This blade can be made from the blade of a steel case-knife, and it should be about two and a half inches long. It is secured to an iron handle.