The Nut Culturist: A Treatise on Propogation, Planting, and Cultivation of Nut Bearing Trees and Shrubs Adapted to the Climate of the United StatesFuller, Andrew S. (Andrew Samuel)
Science
The Nut Culturist: A Treatise on Propogation, Planting, and Cultivation of Nut Bearing Trees and Shrubs Adapted to the Climate of the United States
Fuller, Andrew S. (Andrew Samuel)
Nuts
In grafting isolated stocks in this way, a small or large stake
should be placed by the side of each, to indicate their position,
and also protect them from being trampled upon. I make this
suggestion because, in my own experience, it has often proved
successful with various kinds of hard-wooded trees and shrubs that
failed when grafted in the spring. Here in the North it is rather
difficult, as well as expensive, to protect cions set in the open
ground in the fall; but in the South it is different, and a handful
of almost any coarse litter would be sufficient to prevent severe
freezing.
But grafting in the fall in the open ground is unnecessary, where
small seedling stocks are used in the propagation of any kind of
tree; in fact, nurserymen do very little grafting of this kind in
spring, for they learned, by long experience, that the most
economical and certain method of multiplying such trees is to take
up the stocks in the fall, and then graft them indoors during the
winter, having stocks and cions stored in cool cellars or pits,
where they will be readily accessible when wanted. Apples, pears,
quinces, grapes, and many other kinds of hardy trees, shrubs and
vines are now extensively propagated by grafting during the winter
months, and I do not know of any good reason why the hickories and
other closely allied nut trees should not be multiplied in this way.
I have tried it, on a limited scale, with the shellbark hickories,
and with fair success, and in my opinion it is the only way by which
the hickories, including the pecan, can be multiplied cheaply enough
to become of commercial importance.
The small stocks of one or two years old should be taken up in the
fall, and then crown grafted any time from December to March in the
Northern States, but the earlier the better; then pack away the
grafted stocks in moss or soil, in a cool cellar, or heel-in
elsewhere, as, for instance, in pits or frames, where they will not
be frozen, and yet cool enough to prevent active growth.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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