The octopus : $b or, The "devil-fish" of fiction and of factLee, Henry
Science
The octopus : $b or, The "devil-fish" of fiction and of fact
Lee, Henry
Cephalopoda; Cuttlefish; Octopuses; Squids
I shall never forget the utter loathing, ludicrously mingled
with determination to conquer or conceal that feeling, which was
depicted on the countenances of some of the guests at a memorable
“octopus-lunch” given by my friend Sir John Cordy Burrows at
Brighton, in 1874.
His cook had never before prepared an octopus, and was, probably,
not well pleased to do so then. The nasty-looking object was placed
on the table in all its undisguised ugliness. Its skin, which in
the process of boiling had become lividly purple, and had not been
removed, was in places offensively broken and abraded; and its
arms, shrivelled and shrunk, sprawled helplessly on the dish, and,
somehow, looked, as they proved to be, as tough and ropy as so many
thongs of hunting-whips. Our genial host saw in an instant that
it was a failure in cookery, but, as usual, he was equal to the
occasion. With a twinkle of his eye he “took a sly glance at me,”
and gravely handed a portion of the octopus to an honoured guest.
“Now, sir,” said he, “just taste that, and enjoy one of the luxuries
of the ancient Greeks!” The ancient Greeks were, as it seemed to me,
mentally anathematized; but the plate was accepted, its contents
earnestly scanned, the knife and fork just brought into contact with
the viand, and then all were thrust hastily away. A gallant colonel,
who would probably be in “the first flight” across country, and would
not hesitate to lead a charge of his regiment, also “craned” at his
plate, and declined to taste the “luxury.” Sir Cordy then looked to
me as his “forlorn hope.” With the air of a veteran and connoisseur
I helped him and myself to some of the most approved portions of the
leathery creature. Manfully and perseveringly for some minutes I
tried to masticate a mouthful of it, but it was useless; and feeling
that if human teeth could make no more impression on it than on the
sole of an old boot, the human stomach incurred risk of difficulties
which all the well-known medical skill of our good host might be
unable to cure, I declined to sacrifice myself to an idea, and——;
well, I did not swallow it.
The octopus had not been beaten. We were! I afterwards saw this
little private experiment seriously described in a newspaper
paragraph, which was extensively quoted, as an endeavour to introduce
to the public a new and valuable article of marketable food.
In my opinion, the squid, or sleeve (_Loligo_), is the best of the
three. Rondeletius recommends their being dressed with oil and
vinegar. On the Normandy coast they are boiled with onions and
other vegetables, the liquor being saved as good stock for soup. At
Marseilles they are stuffed with dried tendrils of the vine. The
Chinese and Japanese prefer them seasoned with vinegar and ginger,
and attribute to the flesh various medicinal properties. In Mauritius
and the neighbouring islands they are generally curried.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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