Beautiful _paseos_ also lead from Lima to its suburban watering places, the Avenida de Magdalena being one of the most picturesque of these shady drives. Another popular highway is the road from Lima to Callao, along which the viceroys used to make their splendid processions in former days. It is lined part of the way with shade trees and presents an animated spectacle on feast days and holidays, though it is not so generally used since the advent of the railway, as that service has converted into a twenty minutes’ trip what was formerly a journey of hours. It is the chosen route for farmers and fruitsellers on their way to market, and is thronged in the early morning hours by these picturesque venders, usually on donkeys, which bear the products in huge panniers slung at each side. Lima has four market places, the Mercado Concepcion being the largest and most important; it occupies an entire block and has a spacious interior, two stories in height, admitting of the best ventilation. It is considered one of the largest in South America, both as regards the edifice and the abundance of the market supply. The scene at the market is bright and entertaining, as it is the favorite meeting place for gossip among the market women, and one may hear many a clever bit of repartee between the bargaining purchaser and the nonchalant vender. Local color is vivid in the Mercado Concepcion, as it is wherever there are popular gatherings of the mestizo and the Indian, who give the dominant note; the customs of the Spanish-American of to-day differ little from those of North America, whatever differences exist being due to climate and temperament rather than to traditions. The climate of Lima is very equable, the thermometer seldom rising above seventy degrees or going below sixty degrees Fahrenheit, in the shade. In winter, from May to November, the _garúa_, a damp fog, prevails, arriving with the morning breeze, which blows from the westward, but passing away when the sun is high, except on cloudy days. [Illustration: CHURCH OF SANTO DOMINGO.]