Arequipa is built on the banks of the river Chili, its streets stretching out in all directions to the _campiña_, or green country fields surrounding it. As in all Spanish-American cities the principal square is the centre from which radiates the activity of the population. It is popularly called the _Plaza Mayor_, and bears the official name of Plaza de Armas, or “Military Plaza.” In Arequipa, the Plaza de Armas presents a particularly attractive appearance, the Cathedral, which extends along one side of this square, being a magnificent and imposing edifice, while the arched _portales_ that overlook the remaining three sides are picturesque examples of colonial architecture. [Illustration: LOS PORTALES, AREQUIPA.] The Cathedral is one of the oldest and most interesting temples of Catholic America. Nearly three hundred years ago the decree was issued for its construction, by Pope Paul IV., though it was not until the time of his successor, Pope Paul V., that the work was begun, during the reign of King Philip III, in 1612. The temple was built in accordance with the custom of those days, the decorations of its arches and columns being elaborate and of costly workmanship. Altars of cedar, carved in beautiful design, were subsequently replaced by those of silver, the abundance of this precious metal resulting in its lavish use for the decoration of all the churches and convents of the viceroyalty. The chancel occupied the centre of the chief nave and its seats were of finest cedar, their carved backs showing in high relief the effigies of the twelve apostles and other saints. In the sacristy were preserved many rich treasures, consecrated vases of gold, sacerdotal vestments of rare value, and a collection of portraits of all the bishops of Arequipa from the earliest days. Many of these priceless possessions were destroyed by fire in 1844, when everything perishable succumbed to the flames that wrapped the great edifice in a lurid sheet. The silver of the altars ran over the floor in a molten stream, all efforts to save the precious ornaments being futile. The rebuilding of the sacred structure took twenty years, and was little more than completed when a terrible earthquake visited the city, in 1868, which, however, damaged the Cathedral only slightly;—a proof of its excellent and solid construction, since the shock was terrific and prolonged and resulted in much loss of property. [Illustration: PLAZA DE ARMAS, AREQUIPA.]