The foreigner who first sees the harbor and city of Callao from the deck of a steamer, finds the view such a pleasing contrast to anything the neighboring harbors have to offer, that he is not disposed to find fault even with the barren aspect of San Lorenzo to the south, and the monotonous line of houses facing the water front; he is charmed with the beautiful green of the Rimac valley to the north, the distant glimpse of Lima’s church towers, and behind them the purple hills that hide their summits above the clouds. There is much to enjoy also in the busy scene of the harbor; vessels of all nations are loading and discharging their cargoes, tugs bustle about, and, while the pompous whistle of modern steamers announces their arrival, the graceful sailing ship glides silently into port, maintaining with dignity the credit of the good old days, in the face of these rival _parvenus_ of twentieth century transportation. Nearly all passengers landing at Callao proceed immediately to Lima, and, as soon as the routine of the custom house is finished, there is a general rush for the train or the electric street car which runs to the capital. If the foreigner were to be asked his first impression of Callao, he would probably give a confused description of a place remembered only for its Custom House, the narrow irregular streets and old-fashioned houses of the water front, and the railway tracks to be crossed on the way to the Station. But those who have seen Callao under more favorable circumstances have found many attractions in the social life of its kind and hospitable people and much to admire in the city itself. Under the present administration, important improvements are being carried to completion, notably the work of canalization, which means a great deal to the healthfulness of the city. Block pavements have been laid in the principal streets, the question of sanitation has received special attention, and everything indicates a spirit of progress active in public affairs. [Illustration: THE CUSTOM HOUSE, CALLAO.]