The Old Coast Road: From Boston to PlymouthRothery, Agnes
History
The Old Coast Road: From Boston to Plymouth
Rothery, Agnes
Norfolk County (Mass.) -- Description and travel; Plymouth County (Mass.) -- Description and travel; South Shore (Mass. : Coast)
where it lay like a captive mammoth animal for curious folk to gaze at.
Here it was granted almost half a century of undisturbed if not secluded
slumber. But the end was not yet. In 1880 it was once more laid hold of
and carted back to its original setting, and welded without ceremony, to
the part from which it had been sundered. Now all of this seems quite
enough--more than enough--of pitiless publicity, for one old rock whose
only offense had been to be lifting its head above the water on a
December day in 1620. But no--just as the mind of man takes a singular
satisfaction in gazing at mummies preserved in human semblance in the
unearthly stillness of the catacombs, so the once massive boulder--now
carefully mended--was placed upon the neatest of concrete bases, and
over it was reared, from the designs of Hammatt Billings, the ugliest
granite canopy imaginable--in which canopy, to complete the grisly
atmosphere of the catacombs, were placed certain human bones found in an
exploration of Cole's Hill. Bleak and homeless the old rock now lies
passively in forlorn state under its atrocious shelter, behind a strong
iron grating, and any of a dozen glib street urchins, in syllables
flavored with Cork, or Genoese, or Polish accents, will, for a penny,
relate the facts substantially as I have stated them.[2]
It is easy to be unsympathetic in regard to any form of fetishism which
we do not share. And while the bare fact remains that we are not at all
sure that the Pilgrims landed on this rock, and we are entirely sure
that its present location and setting possess no romantic allurement,
yet bare facts are not the whole truth, and even when correct they are
often the superficial and not the fundamental part of the truth. Those
hundreds--those thousands--of earnest-eyed men and women who have stood
beside this rock with tears in their eyes, and emotions too deep for
words in their hearts, "believing where they cannot prove," have not
only interpreted the vital significance of the place, but, by their very
emotion, have sanctified it.
It really makes little difference whether the testimony of Thomas Faunce
was strictly accurate or not; it really makes little difference that the
Hammatt Billings canopy is indeed dreadful. Plymouth Rock has come to
symbolize the corner-stone of the United States as a nation, and symbols
are the most beautiful and the most enduring expression of any national
or human experience.
It is estimated that over one hundred thousand visitors come to Plymouth
annually. They all go to see the Rock; most of them clamber up to the
quaint Burial Hill and read a few of the oldest inscriptions; they
glance at the National Monument to the forefathers, bearing the largest
granite figure in the world, and they take a turn through Pilgrim Hall.
But there is one place they often forget to see, and that is the harbor
itself.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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