The Old Inns of Old England, Volume 1 (of 2): A Picturesque Account of the Ancient and Storied Hostelries of Our Own CountryHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Old Inns of Old England, Volume 1 (of 2): A Picturesque Account of the Ancient and Storied Hostelries of Our Own Country
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Social life and customs; Hotels -- England
Indeed, earnest people who would dearly, once for all, wish to settle this
knotty point, are like to be embarrassed by the numerous inns, not one of
them greatly resembling the house described by Dickens, that have claims
to be considered the original, and stand, _all_ of them, upon the proper
side of the road. Some commentators press the claim of the “Marquis of
Ailesbury’s Arms” at Manton, or Clatford, a mile out of Marlborough, and
local opinion at the time of _The Pickwick Papers_ being written
identified the house with the lonely inn of Shepherd’s Shore, midway
between Beckhampton and Devizes, in the very midst of the wild downs--the
downs of Marlborough--that are there at their wildest and loneliest.
Whatever the correctitude or otherwise of what should be an expert
view, certainly the inn of Shepherd’s Shore is a thing of the past, as in
the story, where it is described as having been pulled down. There were,
indeed, at different periods two inns so called, and now both are gone.
“Old Shepherd’s Shore” stood, as also did the new, beside the Wansdyke,
but at a considerable distance in a north-westerly direction, on the _old_
road to Devizes, now a mere track. Of “New Shepherd’s Shore” only a
fragment remains, and although that fragment is inhabited, it is not any
longer an inn.
[Illustration: “SHEPHERD’S SHORE.”]
The scene is entirely in accord with the description of the Downs in the
Bagman’s Story (only the spot is in the _midst_ of the wilderness, and not
near the end of it), and he who even nowadays travels the still lonesome
way will heartily echo the statement that there are many pleasanter
places. The old coachmen, who had exceptional opportunities of
observation, used to declare that the way between Beckhampton and
Shepherd’s Shore was the coldest spot on all the road between London and
Bath.
The eerie nature of the spot is emphasised by the circumstance of the
remaining portion of the house standing beside that mysterious
pre-historic earthwork, the great ditch and embankment of the Wansdyke,
that goes marching grimly across the stark hillsides. The Wansdyke has
always impressed the beholder, and accordingly we find it marked on old
maps as “Deuill’s Ditch.”
The name of “Shepherd’s Shore” has been, and still is, a sore puzzle to
all who have cause to write of it. Often written “Shord,” and pronounced
by the country folk “Shard,” just as old seventeenth-century Aubrey prints
it, antiquaries believe the name to derive from “shard,” a fragment: here
specifically a break in the Wansdyke, made in order to let the road (or
the sheep-track) through; “shard” itself being the Middle-English version
of the Anglo-Saxon “sceard,” a division, a boundary, or a breach.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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