The Old Inns of Old England, Volume 1 (of 2): A Picturesque Account of the Ancient and Storied Hostelries of Our Own CountryHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Old Inns of Old England, Volume 1 (of 2): A Picturesque Account of the Ancient and Storied Hostelries of Our Own Country
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Social life and customs; Hotels -- England
Going by the Glasgow Mail to Yorkshire in January, 1838, in company with
“Phiz,” Dickens acquired the local colour for _Nicholas Nickleby_. We
hear, in that story, how the coach carrying Nicholas, Squeers, and the
schoolboys down to Dotheboys Hall, dined at “Eaton Slocomb,” by which
Eaton Socon, fifty-five miles from London, on the Great North Road, is
indicated. There, in that picturesque village among the flats of
Huntingdonshire, still stands the charming little “White Horse” inn, which
in those days, with the long-vanished “Cock,” divided the coaching
business on that stage.
[Illustration: THE “WHITE HORSE,” EATON SOCON.]
Grantham does not figure largely in the story, in whose pages the actual
coach journey is lightly dismissed. There we find merely a mention of the
“George” as “one of the best inns in England”; but in his private
correspondence he refers to that house, enthusiastically, as “the very
best inn I have ever put up at”: and Dickens, as we well know, was a
finished connoisseur of inns.
The “George” at Grantham is typically Georgian: four-square, red-bricked
and prim. It replaced a fine mediæval building, burnt down in 1780; but
what it lacks in beauty it does, according to the testimony of innumerable
travellers, make up for in comfort. At the sign of the “George,” says one,
“you had a cleaner cloth, brighter plate, higher-polished glass, and a
brisker fire, with more prompt attention and civility, than at most other
places.”
From Grantham to Greta Bridge was, in coaching days, one day’s journey.
There the traveller of to-day finds a quiet hamlet on the banks of the
romantic Greta, but in that era it was a busy spot on the main coaching
route, with two large and prosperous inns: the “George” and the “New Inn.”
The “New Inn,” where Dickens stayed, is now a farmhouse, “Thorpe Grange”
by name; while the “George,” standing by the bold and picturesque bridge,
has itself retired from public life, and is now known as “the Square.”
Under that name the great, unlovely building is divided up into tenements
for three or four different families.
[Illustration: THE “GEORGE,” GRETA BRIDGE.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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